Frasca Food and Wine ★ 4.9
Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder is Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson's James Beard-winning Friulian dining room since 2004, a 40-minute drive north of Denver.
History
Colorado lamb has been a Front Range ranching staple since the 1880s, raised on the Western Slope and San Luis Valley pastures. The state ranks among the top US lamb producers. Mountain States Rosen marketed Colorado lamb to white-tablecloth kitchens nationally from the 1970s. Frasca's Friuli kitchen, Bistro Vendome and Rioja all run lamb-shoulder courses through the year; the slow-roast preparation owes to Italian and Greek immigrant kitchens on Federal Boulevard and in Globeville from the early 20th century.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1.8kg bone-in Colorado lamb shoulder
- 8 garlic cloves, slivered
- 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped
- 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
- 2 tablespoons kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon black pepper, cracked
- 60ml olive oil
- 1 large yellow onion, sliced thick
- 500ml lamb or chicken stock
- 250ml dry red wine
Method
- Pat shoulder dry. Make 16 small slits across the lamb; push garlic slivers into them. Rub all over with chopped herbs, salt, pepper and olive oil. Rest 1 hour at room temperature.
- Heat oven to 160C (325F). Lay onion slices in the bottom of a heavy roasting tin; place lamb on top, fat-side up.
- Roast 30 minutes uncovered to brown. Add stock and wine to the pan. Cover with foil; roast another 3 hours, basting every 45 minutes.
- Lamb is done when the meat pulls cleanly off the bone with a fork. Internal temperature 90C (195F).
- Rest uncovered 20 minutes. Pull or slice. Strain the pan juices, skim fat, reduce on the stove 5 minutes; pour over the lamb to serve.
Tip from the editors. Colorado lamb runs leaner than New Zealand lamb; do not skip the 1-hour room-temperature rest before roasting or the centre will run cold.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat colorado lamb
Colorado lamb in Denver
Bistro Vendome ★ 4.5
Bistro Vendome in Denver is Jennifer Jasinski's Larimer Square French bistro since 2003, with a courtyard patio and a menu of canonical bistro plates from Paris to Lyon.
Signature: Steak frites, Bouillabaisse, Duck confit
Order: The steak frites with bearnaise and the duck confit, both menu mainstays since opening, plus a glass of Loire Sauvignon.
Tip: The courtyard is one of Larimer Square's best-kept patios. Brunch on Sunday with the French toast is the room's busiest service.
Rioja ★ 4.6
Rioja in Denver is Jennifer Jasinski's Larimer Square Mediterranean dining room with a weekend brunch service, lobster benedict and bottomless mimosas.
Order: The lobster benedict and bottomless mimosas.
The Buckhorn Exchange ★ 4.3
The Buckhorn Exchange in Denver is the city's oldest steakhouse since 1893, holding Colorado liquor license number one and a game menu that includes elk, buffalo and rattlesnake.
Signature: Elk steak, Rocky Mountain oysters, Bison burger
Order: The elk steak or the buffalo prime rib, both on the menu since opening; the Rocky Mountain oysters are the room's calling card.
Tip: The dining room is the original 1893 saloon with mounted heads on every wall; second-floor lounge is quieter. Light rail stops 50 feet from the door.
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