Phoenix's defining Sonoran dish: large green poblano chilis roasted and peeled, stuffed with Oaxacan or Monterey Jack cheese, dipped in egg-white batter, fried golden and bathed in warm tomato sauce.
Where to eat it: 7 restaurants across 2 cities.
Chiles rellenos originated in colonial Mexico in Puebla, the same kitchen culture that produced mole and the tradition of stuffed dishes for fiestas. The dish reached the Sonoran desert through the 19th-century Mexican-American border culture and became a Phoenix staple after the post-1900 wave of Sonoran migration. Phoenix versions split into two schools: the meat-stuffed picadillo version and the cheese-only Sonoran version (canonical in Phoenix). Comedor Guadalajara, The Original Carolina's and Asadero Norte de Sonora serve Phoenix-canonical versions.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg
Tip from the editors. The egg-white batter is the structural rule for the canonical Phoenix-Sonoran version; a thick wheat-flour batter is wrong (that gives the chili-flavor coat of a tempura). The cream of tartar stabilises the whites and prevents collapse.
Comedor Guadalajara on South Central is a big sit-down Mexican room of regional staples, fast service and lunch specials that fill a plate without much spend.
Try: Mexican plate lunches
Order: A combination plate off the lunch-special menu with rice and beans.
Tip: Lunch specials are the value; the room is large, so walk-ins move fast.
The Original Carolina's Mexican Food on Mohave Street has stretched its thin house flour tortillas since 1968, a Valenzuela family standard in Phoenix.
Signature: Flour tortillas, Bean burros, Red chile
Order: A bean-and-cheese burro on the tissue-thin house flour tortilla.
Tip: Buy a stack of the tortillas to take home; the line moves fast at lunch.
Asadero Norte de Sonora on 16th Street is a neighbourhood Sonoran grill, turning out mesquite carne asada wrapped in house-made flour tortillas.
Signature: Carne asada, House flour tortillas, Barbacoa
Order: Carne asada tacos on the giant house-made flour tortillas.
Tip: Closed Wednesdays; the grilled chicken is as good as the beef if the asada line is long.
Tacos Chiwas on Indian School Road is a family-run Chihuahua-style room, plating gorditas and tacos from recipes carried up from northern Mexico.
Signature: Gorditas, Tacos, Salsa bar
Order: A made-to-order gordita stuffed at the counter, plus a run at the salsa bar.
Tip: Cash and card both work; the Mesa sibling on Main Street keeps the same recipes.
Katharine Kagel's Cafe Pasqual's takes no breakfast reservations; a communal table opens at 08:00 and the huevos motulenos has been on the menu since 1979.
Order: Huevos motulenos with black beans, plantain and salsa borracha
On the Plaza since 1905, the Razatos family Plaza Cafe pours weekend brunch coffee for locals and tourists ordering blue corn pancakes and posole.
Order: Blue corn pancakes with pinon and house syrup
Tomasita's has done sub-$20 stuffed sopaipillas and chile combo plates since 1974; the line is part of the deal, the kitchen never rushes you.
Try: Chile combo plate
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