Carnitas are pork cuts braised and then fried in their own lard until tender inside and crisp outside, chopped to order for tacos and tortas with salsa and pickled chiles.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 2 cities.
Carnitas, literally little meats, is a Mexican dish from Michoacán made by braising, simmering and frying pork in lard, its own fat or oil, a process that takes three to four hours and leaves the meat tender with browned edges. The name was historically the Mexican colloquial name for the French rillons de Tours. In Cancún, Carnitas Don Enrique on Avenida Tikal has served it since 1974, by the cut: shoulder, rind, ribs, shank and hog maw, or the mixed surtida. El Polilla on Avenida Nader makes carnitas tacos its house classic.
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Common allergens: Pork
Tip from the editors. Keep the lard at a lazy simmer for the long stage; too hot and the meat toughens before it turns tender.
Carnitas Don Enrique, a covered-patio taquería on Avenida Tikal in Cancún, has sold pork carnitas by the cut as tacos and tortas since 1974.
OrderA surtida of mixed cuts as tacos or tortas, with the pickled green habanero salsa.
Why locals goA covered-patio carnitas taquería on Avenida Tikal where solo diners from nearby offices chat with the taquero; The Infatuation says it has served locals since 1974.
TipIt closes early afternoon and all day Monday; Saturday and Sunday it shuts by 13:00, so go for breakfast.
El Polilla is a breakfast-and-lunch taquería at Avenida Carlos Nader 8-9 in downtown Cancún, where carnitas tacos are the classic order, with a midday queue.
OrderTacos de carnitas, the house classic; order one first and add more, as the servings are generous.
TipIt closes at 14:00, so go for breakfast or an early lunch, and arrive about 15 minutes before you are hungry because a queue forms at midday.
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with locations across the city, with the Polanco branch.
OrderThe carnitas; the empanadas de platano with frijoles refritos.
TipOpen daily 09:00-22:00; the Azcapotzalco original opened 1972 and is the deeper room for connoisseurs.
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with the Polanco branch on Alejandro Dumas.
OrderCarnitas; empanadas de platano relleno de frijol; tamal de mole.
TipOpen daily 09:00-22:00. The Azcapotzalco original is the deeper room for Veracruz regional depth.
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