History

Carnitas are a Michoacán dish dating to the colonial era, when Spanish pork-husbandry met Purepecha confit techniques. The home of carnitas is Quiroga, but Mexico City elevated the format through its Michoacano migrant taquerias from the 1950s onward. El Rincon Tarasco in Escandon (run by the Zapien family since 1978) and El Bajio (chef Carmen Titita, 1972) hold the city canon. The proper cut order from the chopping block: maciza (lean shoulder), costilla (rib), surtido (mixed), with offal options of buche, oreja, and cuero.

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 4 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg pork shoulder, cut into 5cm chunks
  • 500g pork belly, cut into 5cm chunks
  • 500g pork lard (or duck fat if lard unavailable)
  • 1 orange, peel only (use a peeler, avoid the white pith)
  • 1 white onion, halved
  • 6 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tbsp dried Mexican oregano
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • 200ml whole milk (the Michoacano secret)
  • To serve: 30 small warm corn tortillas, 2 white onions finely diced, 1 large bunch coriander chopped, 4 limes quartered, salsa verde, salsa roja

Method

  1. Heat the lard in a deep heavy pot or cazo de cobre (copper pot) over medium-low until just melted (do NOT smoke).
  2. Add the pork shoulder and belly. Tuck in orange peel, onion halves, garlic cloves, bay leaves, oregano, salt and pepper.
  3. The pork should be just submerged in fat. If short, top up with water; the water boils off during cooking.
  4. Bring to a bare simmer. Cook uncovered 2.5 hours; the pork is done when a fork passes through with no resistance.
  5. Pour in the milk. This is the Michoacano move: the milk solids caramelise on the meat surface and create the bronzed crust.
  6. Turn the heat to medium-high. The lard will sputter as the water cooks off; the pork begins to fry in its own fat. Cook 25 to 35 minutes more, stirring once, until deeply golden and crisp at the edges.
  7. Lift the pork onto a wooden board. Discard orange peel, onion, garlic and bay.
  8. Chop the pork with two cleavers or a heavy knife into 2cm pieces, mixing crisp edges with tender interior.
  9. Pile onto a warm platter. Serve with hot tortillas, onion, coriander, lime and both salsas; each diner builds their own.

Tip from the editors. Adding milk in the final stage is the Michoacano carnitas trick; the lactose caramelises on the pork and gives the dark amber crust.

Where to eat carnitas

Carnitas in Mexico City

El Bajio ★ 4.3

Veracruz Mexican$$polanco

El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with locations across the city, with the Polanco branch.

Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico

Order: The carnitas; the empanadas de platano with frijoles refritos.

Tip: Open daily 09:00-22:00; the Azcapotzalco original opened 1972 and is the deeper room for connoisseurs.

Alejandro Dumas 7, Polanco IV Seccion, Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 Ciudad de Mexico

El Bajio Polanco ★ 4.3

Regional Mexican$$polanco

El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with the Polanco branch on Alejandro Dumas.

Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico

Order: Carnitas; empanadas de platano relleno de frijol; tamal de mole.

Tip: Open daily 09:00-22:00. The Azcapotzalco original is the deeper room for Veracruz regional depth.

Alejandro Dumas 7, Polanco IV Seccion, Miguel Hidalgo, 11550 Ciudad de Mexico

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