Carciofo alla giudia
Photo: Superchilum · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Carciofo alla giudia originated in Rome's Jewish Ghetto, the 1555-founded papal quarter where Jewish cooks adapted the local Romanesco artichoke into a twice-fried dish that softened the heart while crisping the outer leaves to a flower-like fritter. The technique reached its modern form by the mid-19th century; Sora Margherita and Boccione codified the service ritual. The artichoke season runs March to May only, when Romanesco artichokes from the Castelli Romani are at their peak.

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Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 25 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 2 large Romanesco artichokes (or globe artichokes), stem on
  • 1 lemon, halved
  • 1L extra virgin olive oil for frying
  • Sea salt flakes
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Method

  1. Trim the outer tough leaves off each artichoke until you reach the pale yellow tender leaves. Pare the stem and cut it to 5cm length.
  2. Press the artichoke gently against a cutting board to open the leaves outward like a flower.
  3. Rub the cut surfaces with the lemon halves to prevent browning.
  4. Heat the olive oil to 140°C in a deep pot. Fry the artichokes head-down for 8 to 10 minutes until the hearts are tender (test with a skewer).
  5. Remove the artichokes to drain, pressing the leaves outward more aggressively with a wooden spoon to fan them out.
  6. Raise the oil to 180°C. Plunge the artichokes back in for 1 to 2 minutes to crisp the outer leaves to a crackly amber.
  7. Drain on paper, season with sea salt flakes and serve immediately while the leaves are still shatter-crisp.

Tip from the editors. The artichoke must be Romanesco (variety mammola) for the canonical dish: it has no choke and tender stem. Cooks in the Ghetto press the leaves open with the heel of the hand before the second fry; the fan-shape is the visual.

Where to eat carciofo alla giudia

Carciofo alla giudia in Rome

Ba'Ghetto ★ 4.0

€€ Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto

Ba'Ghetto in Rome's Jewish Ghetto serves the cucina giudaico-romanesca canon under kosher supervision. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman-jewish.

OrderCarciofo alla giudia, aliciotti con l'indivia and the spaghetti with anchovies.

TipKosher kitchen; closed Friday evening through Saturday lunch. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.

Directions Book a table

Nonna Betta ★ 4.0

€€ Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto

Nonna Betta in Rome's Jewish Ghetto runs the giudaico-romanesca menu with a wider modern carte than the strictly-kosher houses. Priced at €€.

OrderCarciofo alla giudia, concia di zucchine and the spaghetti with bottarga.

TipOpen Saturday lunch; not strictly kosher but recipes follow the Roman-Jewish tradition.

Directions Book

Da Enzo al 29 ★ 4.4

€€ Roman TrattoriaTrastevere

Da Enzo al 29 in Rome's Trastevere is the 30-seat trattoria with the longest queue in town. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via dei Vascellari 29.

OrderCarbonara, carciofo alla giudia in season (March to May), tiramisu to finish.

TipNo bookings for parties under four. Queue from 18:45 for a 19:00 seating or you will wait an hour.

Directions

Antica Pesa ★ 4.3

€€€ Roman TrattoriaTrastevere

Antica Pesa in Rome's Trastevere is the 1922-founded trattoria with a hidden walled garden, the celebrity-spot lunch room and the cacio e pepe that critics.

OrderCacio e pepe, tagliata di manzo, and the carciofi alla giudia in season.

TipBook the walled garden three weeks ahead for May to September. Closed Sunday all day.

Directions Book

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