Carciofo alla giudia is the Roman-Jewish artichoke dish: a whole Romanesco artichoke trimmed, pressed open, twice-fried in olive oil until the outer leaves crackle like fritters. The Ghetto's classic.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
The carciofo alla giudia originated in Rome's Jewish Ghetto, the 1555-founded papal quarter where Jewish cooks adapted the local Romanesco artichoke into a twice-fried dish that softened the heart while crisping the outer leaves to a flower-like fritter. The technique reached its modern form by the mid-19th century; Sora Margherita, Boccione and the Ghetto's restaurants codified the service ritual. The artichoke season runs March to May only, when Romanesco artichokes from the Castelli Romani are at their peak; out-of-season versions use frozen or imported globe artichokes and are not the canonical dish. Carciofo alla romana (braised in oil with mint, parsley and garlic) is the parallel non-Jewish Roman version.
Tip from the editors. The artichoke must be Romanesco (variety mammola) for the canonical dish: it has no choke and tender stem. Cooks in the Ghetto press the leaves open with the heel of the hand before the second fry; the fan-shape is the visual.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Ba'Ghetto in Rome's Jewish Ghetto serves the cucina giudaico-romanesca canon under kosher supervision. The carciofo alla giudia is the dish you came for, fried to a fritter.
Signature: Carciofo alla giudia, Filetti di baccalà, Aliciotti con l'indivia
Order: Carciofo alla giudia, aliciotti con l'indivia and the spaghetti with anchovies.
Tip: Kosher kitchen; closed Friday evening through Saturday lunch. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.
Nonna Betta in Rome's Jewish Ghetto runs the giudaico-romanesca menu with a wider modern carte than the strictly-kosher houses. The carciofo alla giudia is the order, with concia di zucchine.
Signature: Carciofo alla giudia, Filetti di baccalà, Concia di zucchine
Order: Carciofo alla giudia, concia di zucchine and the spaghetti with bottarga.
Tip: Open Saturday lunch; not strictly kosher but recipes follow the Roman-Jewish tradition.
Da Enzo al 29 in Rome's Trastevere is the 30-seat trattoria with the longest queue in town. The carbonara is mantecata with raw yolks; the carciofo alla giudia is fried to order.
Signature: Carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Carciofo alla giudia
Order: Carbonara, carciofo alla giudia in season (March to May), tiramisu to finish.
Tip: No bookings for parties under four. Queue from 18:45 for a 19:00 seating or you will wait an hour.
Antica Pesa in Rome's Trastevere is the 1922-founded trattoria with a hidden walled garden, the celebrity-spot lunch room and the cacio e pepe that critics have argued over for decades.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Tagliata di manzo, Carciofi alla giudia
Order: Cacio e pepe, tagliata di manzo, and the carciofi alla giudia in season.
Tip: Book the walled garden three weeks ahead for May to September. Closed Sunday all day.
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