Bun maska
Photo: Sanket Oswal · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Bun maska is the canonical Irani cafe pairing for Irani chai, born from the Persian Zoroastrian migration of the early 1900s that built the city's cafe culture. Kyani and Co (founded 1904), Sassanian (founded 1913) and Yazdani still serve it the original way: a soft, slightly sweet bun split and slathered with cold white butter that melts on contact. The price has barely moved in a decade.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Makes 6 bun maskaHands-on 20 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g all-purpose flour
  • 10g instant yeast
  • 50g sugar
  • 10g salt
  • 300ml warm milk
  • 60g softened butter, plus 200g extra (cold, salted) for serving
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • Milk for brushing the tops

Method

  1. Mix flour, yeast, sugar and salt in a large bowl.
  2. Add warm milk, beaten egg and softened butter. Mix to a soft dough.
  3. Knead 8 minutes until smooth and elastic. Cover, rise 1 hour until doubled.
  4. Punch down, divide into 6 equal pieces. Shape each into a round bun.
  5. Place buns on a lined tray, brush tops with milk. Cover, rise 30 minutes.
  6. Bake at 200C 12 to 15 minutes until golden brown.
  7. Cool completely, then split horizontally.
  8. Spread a generous slab of cold salted butter (Amul or similar) on the cut side of each bun half. Serve with strong Irani chai.

Tip from the editors. The bun must be at room temperature so the butter stays cold and unmelted; that contrast is the dish.

Where to eat bun maska

Bun maska in Mumbai

Kyani and Co ★ 4.8

$ Irani cafeMarine Lines

Kyani and Co in Mumbai: irani cafe room. Mumbai's oldest Irani cafe (1904) hides behind a faded yellow facade on Marine Lines; the regulars.

Why locals goMumbai's oldest Irani cafe (1904) hides behind a faded yellow facade on Marine Lines; the regulars at the counter have outlasted most of the city's restaurants.

TipBun maska and Irani chai, share a mawa cake; cash easiest. Cash and card both accepted.

Sassanian Boulangerie ★ 4.4

$ Irani bakeryHot brun, mawa cake and pavMarine LinesWalk-in only

Rustom K Yazdabadi opened Sassanian on 1st Marine Street in 1913. The bakery oven has stayed lit ever since; bun maska, brun, fried egg pav and mawa cake.

OrderMawa cake and a brun with butter.

TipMawa cakes sell out by lunch; arrive early. Cash and card both accepted.

Yazdani Bakery ★ 4.3

$ Irani bakeryFort

Yazdani Bakery in Mumbai: Tucked in a tiny Fort alley off Akbar Ally, no signage, easy to miss; the wood-fired oven has stayed lit for six decades.

Why locals goTucked in a tiny Fort alley off Akbar Ally, no signage, easy to miss; the wood-fired oven has stayed lit for six decades.

TipBrun maska with Irani chai is the order; closed Sundays. Cash and card both accepted.

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