Bun dau mam tom is Hanoi's most divisive dish: cubed fried tofu and rice noodles served with boiled pork, fried pork roll and a small pink dip of mam tom.
Where to eat it: 1 restaurant across 1 city.
Bun dau mam tom is an old Hanoi street dish, traditionally a lunchtime worker's meal of cheap protein and pungent dip. Fermented shrimp paste (mam tom) is the defining flavour and the dividing one: Hanoians love it, outsiders often need a few attempts. Counters like Bun Dau Co Tuyen on Hang Khay serve the dish to Old Quarter regulars from morning to past midnight.
Common allergens: Shrimp, Soy, Pork
Bun Dau Mam Tom Co Tuyen in Hanoi is the post-bar bun dau counter on Hang Khay, plating fried tofu, rice noodles and shrimp paste to the late Hoan Kiem crowd.
Try: Bun dau mam tom fried tofu with shrimp paste
Order: Bun dau mam tom with fried tofu, rice noodles, boiled pork, fried pork roll and the canonical mam tom dip.
Tip: The pink shrimp paste is assertive; ask staff to balance with lime and sugar. Cash only.
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