History

Bollos, or bollitos, came to Key West with the Cuban cigar-working community and were once cried through the streets from carts, the way they had been in Havana. Keys Weekly calls the bollo the most original Key West food. They are not a cooked-bean fritter: the peas are soaked and then ground raw, so the texture is light and slightly grainy rather than mashed. The vendors have gone and only a handful of counters still make them, 5 Brothers Grocery among them. Chef Norman Van Aken published a Key West version in My Key West Kitchen, which is the recipe most home cooks work from.

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 25 minTotal 8 hrDifficulty Medium

Ingredients

  • 340g dried black-eyed peas
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 small sweet onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 scotch bonnet or habanero, deseeded
  • 2 tsp salt
  • Neutral oil for deep frying
  • Hot sauce, to serve

Method

  1. Soak the peas in cold water overnight, at least 8 hours. They should swell but stay raw.
  2. Drain, then rub the peas between your palms in a bowl of fresh water to loosen the skins. Skim off the skins that float.
  3. Put the drained peas into a food processor with the garlic, onion, chilli and salt and blitz to a thick, slightly grainy paste. Add a splash of water only if it will not move.
  4. Beat the paste hard with a spoon for a minute to aerate it.
  5. Heat the oil to 180C and drop in heaped teaspoons of the mixture.
  6. Fry 3 to 4 minutes, turning, until deep gold and hollow-sounding. Drain and serve very hot with hot sauce.

Tip from the editors. Never cook the peas first. Soaked-raw is the whole point, and boiled peas turn the fritters dense and pasty.

Where to eat bollos

Bollos in Key West

5 Brothers Grocery & Sandwich Shop ★ 4.7

Cuban$old-townMon-Sat 06:30-15:00; closed Sunday

5 Brothers Grocery feeds Old Town Key West on corner-store prices, pressing Cuban mixes and frying bollos at Southard and Grinnell since 1978.

Try: Cuban mix, con leche and bollos

Tip: The Bench Crew of regulars holds court outside each morning; come before the 06:30 rush clears the pastry case.

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