History

Bola de Berlim arrived in Portugal with German Jewish refugees fleeing Europe in the late 1930s and 1940s; bakers in Porto and Lisbon swapped the jam filling for a thick egg-yolk-rich pastry cream (doce de ovos), and the Portuguese version was born. Padaria Ribeiro on Praca Guilherme Gomes Fernandes, founded 1878, is widely considered the canonical Porto reference for the bola.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 10Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g strong white flour
  • 70g caster sugar
  • 1 teaspoon fine salt
  • 10g instant dried yeast
  • 200ml warm milk
  • 3 large eggs
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 80g unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 litre neutral oil, for deep-frying
  • 150g caster sugar, for coating
  • For the doce de ovos: 6 large egg yolks
  • 200g caster sugar
  • 100ml water
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • peel of 1 lemon

Method

  1. Whisk flour, 70g sugar, salt and yeast in a stand mixer bowl. Add warm milk, eggs and lemon zest.
  2. Knead with the dough hook 6 minutes to a smooth dough. Add the soft butter in 4 pieces, kneading between each until incorporated.
  3. Knead 5 minutes more until the dough is satin-smooth and pulls cleanly from the bowl.
  4. Cover and prove 90 minutes until doubled.
  5. Knock back gently. Divide into 10 pieces of about 75g each. Shape into tight smooth balls and place on a floured tray.
  6. Cover loosely and prove 45 minutes until puffy.
  7. Meanwhile make the doce de ovos: simmer 200g sugar, water, cinnamon stick and lemon peel 5 minutes to a thin syrup. Remove the cinnamon and peel.
  8. Whisk the egg yolks lightly. Pour the warm syrup into the yolks in a slow stream, whisking constantly.
  9. Return to the lowest possible heat and cook 4 to 6 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, until thick enough to coat the spoon. Do not let it boil. Cool, then transfer to a piping bag.
  10. Heat the oil to 170C. Fry the bolas 2 to 3 at a time, 90 seconds a side, until deep gold; the oil must not be too hot or the centre stays raw.
  11. Drain briefly on kitchen paper, then roll each warm bola in caster sugar.
  12. Slit each bola along the side with a paring knife (do not cut through). Pipe the doce de ovos generously into the slit so a thick line of yellow cream shows along the cut.

Tip from the editors. The doce de ovos must be cooked low and slow; one hard simmer and it scrambles. If you see any lump form, strain immediately through a fine sieve and continue.

Where to eat bola de berlim

Bola de Berlim in Porto

Padaria Ribeiro ★ 4.5

BakeryMon-Sat 07:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-13:00Walk-in onlyBread and Portuguese pastries since 1878

Padaria Ribeiro on Praca Guilherme Gomes Fernandes in Porto has baked since 1878, famed for the slow-leaven croissant amanteigado finished with warm sugar.

Worth the queue: Croissant amanteigado

Confeitaria do Bolhao ★ 4.4

BakeryMon-Fri 06:00-20:00, Sat 06:00-19:00, Sun 08:00-13:00Walk-in onlyCentury-old pastry shop with own manufacture

Confeitaria do Bolhao opposite the Bolhao market in Porto has baked since 1896, keeping original Art Nouveau tiles and the Abade de Priscos pudding.

Worth the queue: Pudim do Abade de Priscos

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