Bistecca alla fiorentina
Photo: mike packard · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

The bistecca traces to the August 10 feast of San Lorenzo in Renaissance Florence, when oxen were spit-roasted on bonfires across the city for the public. English merchants in 16th-century Florence brought the word 'beefsteak' into Italian as 'bistecca'. The Chianina cattle, native to the Val di Chiana since Etruscan times, became the canonical breed. The Disciplinare della Bistecca alla Fiorentina from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina sets the standard: a T-bone 5cm thick minimum, dry-aged 21 days, grilled hot over charcoal or wood, never above 5 minutes per side, never sauced.

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Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 15 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 Chianina T-bone steak, 1.2kg, 5cm thick, dry-aged 21 days
  • Sea salt, coarse
  • Black pepper, freshly cracked
  • Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil
  • Optional: a sprig of rosemary

Method

  1. Bring the steak to room temperature, 2 hours out of the fridge.
  2. Light a wood or charcoal grill until the embers are white-hot, no flame.
  3. Pat the steak dry. Do not salt yet.
  4. Stand the steak on its fat side first for 2 minutes to render.
  5. Lay flat over the embers and grill 4 minutes one side, 4 minutes the other, untouched.
  6. Remove to a board, salt generously, rest 5 minutes uncovered.
  7. Slice off the bone, cut against the grain in 1cm strips, drizzle olive oil and black pepper.
  8. Serve immediately with white beans and grilled radicchio.

Tip from the editors. Internal target is 50C, blood-rare. Never order a Florentine bistecca well-done; a Florentine kitchen will refuse.

Where to eat bistecca alla fiorentina

Bistecca alla fiorentina in Florence

Trattoria Sostanza ★ 4.5

€€ Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella

Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Priced at €€.

OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.

TipCash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30.

Directions

Buca Lapi ★ 4.4

€€€ Florentine, Bistecca-ledSanta Maria Novella

Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long.

OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the tartufo pasta in season.

TipCash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.

Directions Book

Trattoria Mario ★ 4.5

€ ItalianSan Lorenzo

Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo has run the working-class lunch counter since 1953 next to Mercato Centrale, with a daily pasta carte at €8 a primo.

OrderRibollita, pappardelle al cinghiale, a glass of house Chianti for €3.

TipQueue from 12:00; lunch-only Mon-Sat. Cash only. Closed all of August.

Directions

Regina Bistecca ★ 4.2

€€€ Florentine, Bistecca-ledCentro Storico

Regina Bistecca in Florence's Centro Storico is the dedicated bistecca house behind the Duomo, with Chianina dry-aged in glass cabinets and a wood-fired.

OrderThe 1kg bistecca alla fiorentina for two and the Chianina tartare to start.

TipBook a window seat over Via Ricasoli a fortnight ahead. Closed Tuesday.

Directions Book a table

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