Slow-braised beef in dried-chili and spice consommé, served in deep bowls with the broth, raw onion, cilantro, and lime, or stuffed into tortillas dipped in the orange fat to make quesabirria tacos.
Where to eat it: 6 restaurants across 1 city.
Birria originated in Jalisco in the 17th century as a method for cooking the tough meat of Spanish-brought sheep; the dish moved north to Tijuana with beef, then exploded internationally as quesabirria around 2018. Mexico City's birria boom is more recent (post-2020) with stands in Roma, Condesa, and the markets serving Tijuana-style quesabirria alongside the Jalisco-original beef consommé.
Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy
Tip from the editors. Save the orange fat that floats on top of the consommé; this is what gives quesabirria tacos their distinctive crisp shell and bright colour, and skipping it leaves you with a generic taco.
El Hidalguense in Mexico City: Weekend-only Roma Sur barbacoa pit from Hidalgo state, off the tourist map and out of consome by noon Sunday.
Why locals love it: Weekend-only Roma Sur barbacoa pit from Hidalgo state, off the tourist map and out of consome by noon Sunday.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00-18:00; arrive by 09:30 Sunday before the consome runs out.
Centro tortas counter on Luis Moya since 1992 from wrestler Super Astro Jr's family; 1.5kg Torta Gladiador free if finished in 15 minutes, lucha-libre decor.
Why locals love it: Centro torta counter on Luis Moya owned by the family of Super Astro the luchador since 1991, with a kilogram free-if-you-finish Gladiador torta challenge.
Tip: Closed Sundays; the Gladiador is free if you finish it in 15 minutes. The walls are covered in lucha libre masks.
Mercado Roma in Mexico City is the Roma Norte gourmet food hall on Queretaro, a three-floor market with 50-plus vendors covering Mexican, Italian, Venezuelan.
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with locations across the city, with the Polanco branch.
Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico
Order: The carnitas; the empanadas de platano with frijoles refritos.
Tip: Open daily 09:00-22:00; the Azcapotzalco original opened 1972 and is the deeper room for connoisseurs.
Los Cocuyos in Mexico City is the 24-hour Centro Historico taqueria on Bolivar since 1980, the around-the-clock counter that runs suadero, longaniza.
Try: Suadero and tripa tacos
El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria on Altata that runs till 04:00 daily, the late-night al carbon counter and the go-to Condesa post-bar stop.
Try: Campechano and gaonera tacos
More cities are in research. Want birria de res covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.