History

Bacalhau a Braga is one of the 365 ways of cooking bacalhau documented across Portugal, but it holds a specific Minho character. The thick fried onion rings and green peppers distinguish it from the northern a Ze do Pipo or the southern Gomes de Sa preparations. The dish crystallised as a Braga signature at family restaurants in the mid-20th century; Restaurante Tia Isabel and Arcoense are its two canonical addresses. Cozinha da Se near the cathedral has kept the preparation on its menu since the 1990s without modification.

Common allergens: Fish, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 40 minTotal 13 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 thick bacalhau (salt cod) fillets, about 200g each
  • 3 large onions, cut into thick rings
  • 2 green peppers, deseeded and cut into strips
  • 150ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 800g waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into wedges
  • Handful of black olives
  • Flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • Black pepper

Method

  1. Desalt the bacalhau: soak for 12 to 24 hours in cold water, changing water 3 times. Drain and pat dry.
  2. Fry the potato wedges in olive oil over medium-high heat until golden and cooked through, about 20 minutes. Season and set aside.
  3. In a large pan, heat more olive oil over medium heat. Fry the onion rings and green pepper strips slowly until soft and golden, about 15 minutes. Add garlic for the last 2 minutes.
  4. Push the onion and pepper to the edges. Raise heat to medium-high and fry the bacalhau fillets, skin-side down first, 4 minutes per side.
  5. Arrange on a platter with potatoes, olives and the onion-pepper mix spooned over. Scatter parsley and crack black pepper generously.

Tip from the editors. The quality of the olive oil defines the dish; use the best Portuguese extra-virgin available. The bacalhau should flake easily when pressed; overcooked it dries out.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat bacalhau a braga

Bacalhau a Braga in Braga

Restaurante Tia Isabel ★ 4.4

Maximinos

The beloved Sunday restaurant of Braga locals: roast kid, stuffed bacalhau and papas de sarrabulho at honest prices away from the tourist centre.

Try: Papas de sarrabulho and bacalhau recheado

Order: Papas de sarrabulho with bread and a vinho verde at the family table for under €13.

Tip: Sunday lunch fills by 12:30; reserve by phone. Weekday lunch is more relaxed and the same full menu applies, often at slightly faster service.

Arcoense ★ 4.3

Traditional Minho€€MaximinosMon-Sat 12:30-22:30, Sun 12:30-15:00

Founded in the 1970s on the outskirts of Braga, Arcoense built its reputation on certified Bisaro pork, Minho cod and padeiro roast kid. Reservations advised.

Signature: Bacalhau à Braga, Rojões à minhota, Cabrito à padeiro

Order: Certified Bisaro pork rojões with lard-fried potatoes: a thirty-year signature dish worth the taxi fare.

Tip: Six kilometres from the centre. Reservations essential at weekends.

Cozinha da Sé ★ 4.0

Contemporary Portuguese€€€Centro Historico

Open since 1998 and Michelin-referenced since 2013, Cozinha da Sé works rustic-modern Minho cooking from a central location in the historic quarter. Wine-lined walls, intimate dining rooms.

Signature: Cabrito assado à moda do Minho, Fish cataplana, Bacalhau assado no forno com batata a murro

Order: Cabrito assado à moda do Minho: the slow-roasted kid that has been on the menu since the house opened in 1998.

More cities are in research. Want bacalhau a braga covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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