History

The Thursday ärtsoppa tradition dates to medieval Sweden when Friday was a fasting day, so Thursday meant a hearty meal to carry workers through. King Erik XIV reportedly died of arsenic-laced pea soup in 1577. The pannkakor dessert pairing is uniquely Swedish. Den Gyldene Freden and Pelikan still serve it as Thursday lunch.

Common allergens: Dairy, Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g dried yellow split peas, soaked overnight
  • 500g lightly cured smoked pork shoulder or smoked ham hock
  • 2 large yellow onions, diced
  • 2 tsp dried marjoram
  • 1 tsp ground ginger
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1.5 litres water or light pork stock
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Hot Swedish mustard, to serve
  • 200g plain flour (for pancakes)
  • 500ml whole milk (for pancakes)
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 tbsp caster sugar (for pancakes)
  • 1/2 tsp fine salt (for pancakes)
  • 60g unsalted butter, melted, plus more for cooking
  • Whipped cream and lingonberry jam, to serve

Method

  1. Drain the soaked peas. Place in a heavy pot with the pork, diced onions, marjoram, ginger, bay leaves and water. Bring to a simmer; skim the surface.
  2. Reduce heat and simmer covered for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, stirring every 30 minutes, until the peas have collapsed to a thick, savoury porridge.
  3. Lift out the pork, slice thick. Discard the bay leaves. Taste the soup; adjust salt and pepper. The texture should be thick but spoonable.
  4. While the soup simmers, make the pancakes. Whisk the flour, sugar and salt in a bowl. Whisk in the eggs and milk to a smooth thin batter. Stir in the melted butter. Rest 30 minutes.
  5. Heat a 22cm pan over medium-high. Brush with butter. Pour 60ml batter into the pan, swirl thin, and cook 90 seconds a side until pale gold. Stack between greaseproof paper.
  6. Serve the ärtsoppa hot in deep bowls with a slice of warm pork on top. Pass the hot Swedish mustard at the table.
  7. Follow with pannkakor: fold each pancake into quarters, top with a heaped tablespoon of whipped cream and a spoon of lingonberry jam.

Tip from the editors. Soak split peas overnight; un-soaked peas take 4 hours and the texture is wrong. Thursday lunch in Sweden is sacred; serve another day, expect questions.

Where to eat ärtsoppa och pannkakor

Ärtsoppa och Pannkakor in Stockholm

Den Gyldene Freden ★ 4.3

Swedish Classical$$$gamla-stan

Den Gyldene Freden on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan opened in 1722 and remains the oldest restaurant in continuous operation under the same name.

Signature: Wallenbergare veal patty with mash, Janssons frestelse anchovy potato

Order: Wallenbergare with pea purée, lingonberry and brown butter potatoes.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The vaulted cellar is the heritage room; the upstairs table runs quieter.

Österlånggatan 51, 111 31 Stockholm Book →

Pelikan ★ 4.3

Swedish Husmanskost$$sodermalm

Pelikan on Blekingegatan in Stockholm's Södermalm has cooked husmanskost in the vaulted 1904 hall since the Pelikan name moved from Gamla Stan, meatballs.

Signature: Meatballs with cream sauce and lingonberry, Sillbord pickled herring board

Order: The meatball plate with mash, brown sauce, lingonberry and pickled cucumber.

Tip: The smaller dining room is calmer than the big hall. Skip the queue by booking the bar counter online.

Blekingegatan 40, 116 62 Stockholm Book →

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