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History
Arroz al horno (rice in the oven) is the Valencian housewife's Monday dish, made from the leftovers of the Sunday cocido. Chickpeas, pork, blood sausage and morcilla from the previous day are layered with rice, tomato slices and potato in a clay cazuela and baked in the local panaderia's wood-fired oven on the way to work. The dish has been cooked in Valencian kitchens since the 17th century. Navarro and Racons cook canonical versions in central Valencia; the El Palmar restaurants in La Albufera bake the dish in their own wood ovens.
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Common allergens: Pork
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g bomba rice
- 150g cooked chickpeas (or canned)
- 200g pork ribs (costilla)
- 1 morcilla de cebolla (Spanish onion blood sausage)
- 1 blanquet (Valencian white sausage), optional
- 2 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced thin
- 2 ripe tomatoes, sliced into rings
- 1 whole head of garlic
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 1 litre meat broth (from the previous day's cocido, or shop-bought)
- 100ml extra-virgin olive oil
- Sea salt
Method
- Preheat oven to 200 C.
- Heat the oil in a clay cazuela on the hob over medium-high heat. Brown the pork ribs for 5 minutes.
- Add the morcilla and blanquet for 2 more minutes, remove all the meats.
- Add the paprika to the oil off the heat for 10 seconds. Pour in the hot broth; bring to a hard boil.
- Add the rice and the chickpeas, distribute evenly. Season with salt.
- Lay the potato slices, tomato rings, the whole garlic head and the pork pieces on top.
- Bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes, until the rice is dry and the top is crisp.
- Rest for 5 minutes before serving. The whole garlic head is eaten by squeezing the cloves out.
Tip from the editors. Use a clay cazuela if you have one; it holds heat and gives the rice the canonical bottom crust. The whole garlic head is essential; squeeze it onto the rice when you eat.
Where to eat arroz al horno
Arroz al horno in Valencia
Navarro ★ 4.3
Navarro on Carrer de l'Arquebisbe Mayoral in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a long-running family rice kitchen, with a tiled dining room and a strong arroz al.
OrderThe arroz al horno with chickpeas, blood sausage and pork, ordered as a half portion for two.
TipReserve 24 hours ahead for paella. The menu del dia at lunch is one of the best in the centre.
Casa Roberto ★ 4.5
Casa Roberto on Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo in Valencia's Eixample has cooked Roberto Aparicio's traditional paellas since 1986, with a long chef's record.
OrderThe paella valenciana ordered ahead, with the croquetas and salmorejo to start.
TipClosed Monday all day and Sunday evenings. Reserve 48 hours ahead for paella; the dining room is small.
Racons ★ 4.2
Racons in Valencia's Eixample is a neighbourhood arroceria with a wide rice carte, including the wood-oven arroz al horno that needs ordering in advance.
OrderThe arroz al horno (oven-baked rice with chickpeas, pork and morcilla) for two.
TipClosed Sunday evening. The wood-oven arroz needs at least 24 hours notice.
El Encuentro ★ 4.0
El Encuentro in Valencia: Neighbourhood arroceria in central Valencia that locals book weekly, the lunchtime menu del dia is the best-kept secret.
OrderThe paella valenciana for two, ordered ahead.
Why locals goNeighbourhood arroceria in central Valencia that locals book weekly, the lunchtime menu del dia is the best-kept secret.
TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday. The lunchtime paella plate is the secret.
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