History

Arros negre is a Catalan coastal classic, codified in the rice-growing Albufera and Tarragona regions in the 19th century and adopted by Barcelona seafood houses as a signature dinner plate. The dish uses bomba rice cooked in cuttlefish ink until the grains turn glossy black, with a thin caramelised socarrat at the pan bottom. 7 Portes (founded 1836 at the harbour, the city's oldest seafood house) plates the canonical version daily; Cal Pep at the Born serves a refined small portion; Can Sole and Els Pescadors keep the tradition alive in Barceloneta and Poblenou. Always served with allioli on the side, spooned over to cut the briny depth.

Common allergens: Fish, Shellfish, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g whole squid or cuttlefish (cleaned; ink sacs reserved; bodies sliced into rings; tentacles left whole). Substitute 30g squid ink in a sachet (sold at good Spanish or Italian fishmongers) if you cannot get whole squid with ink
  • 300g bomba rice or short-grain Spanish rice
  • 1L fish stock (preferably homemade with prawn shells; or substitute a good shop-bought fish stock)
  • 60ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped
  • 2 vine tomatoes, grated (skin discarded)
  • 1 tsp sweet paprika (pimentón dulce)
  • Pinch of saffron threads
  • Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
  • For the allioli: 4 garlic cloves, 1 large egg yolk, 200ml extra-virgin olive oil, juice of half a lemon, pinch of fine sea salt
  • Lemon wedges, to serve

Method

  1. Make the allioli: pound the garlic cloves with a pinch of salt in a mortar to a smooth paste. Whisk in the egg yolk. Drizzle in the olive oil in a thin steady stream, whisking constantly, until thick and creamy. Whisk in the lemon juice. Taste; adjust salt. Cover; refrigerate.
  2. Bring the fish stock to a bare simmer in a separate saucepan; keep hot.
  3. Heat olive oil in a wide (30cm) paella pan or shallow heavy frying pan over medium-high. Add the squid rings and tentacles; sear hard for 2 minutes. Lift out and set aside.
  4. Reduce heat to medium. Add the onion to the pan; cook 5 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper; cook another 5 minutes until soft.
  5. Stir in the grated tomato and paprika; cook 3 to 4 minutes to evaporate the tomato water.
  6. Add the rice; stir to coat every grain in the oily sofrito base; cook 2 minutes.
  7. Squeeze the ink from the reserved squid sacs (or empty the substitute sachet) into the pan; stir to coat the rice (the rice will turn coal-black).
  8. Pour in the hot fish stock; add the saffron threads. Stir once; do not stir again from this point.
  9. Bring to a hard simmer; cook 18 to 20 minutes (the rice should absorb most of the liquid; a thin layer of caramelised socarrat will form at the bottom of the pan).
  10. Return the squid pieces to the surface in the last 5 minutes.
  11. Take off the heat; rest covered with foil 5 minutes.
  12. Bring the pan straight to the table; let diners spoon their own portions. Pass the allioli and lemon wedges separately.

Tip from the editors. The socarrat (crust at the pan bottom) is the prize; do not stir once stock goes in. Use bomba rice if you can; it stays separate without going gluey.

Where to eat arros negre (squid-ink rice)

Arros negre (squid-ink rice) in Barcelona

7 Portes ★ 4.3

Catalan Classic€€€born

7 Portes in Barcelona's Born has run since 1836: arched rooms, brass plaques on regulars' tables, a paella for each day of the week. Priced at €€€.

Signature: Parellada paella, Catalan cream

Order: The Thursday paella Parellada and the crema catalana to finish.

Tip: Lunch is easier than dinner; the noon paella is held on the menu every day of the week.

Passeig d'Isabel II 14, 08003 Barcelona Book →

Cal Pep ★ 4.6

Catalan Tapas€€€born

Cal Pep in Barcelona's Born has run the same standing counter since 1977: tortilla del bacallà, baby clams with ham, fried gambes, all called out by Pep.

Signature: Tortilla del bacallà, Cloïsses amb pernil

Order: The tortilla del bacallà and the clams with ham, with a glass of cava.

Tip: No reservations. Be at the door at 13:00 or 19:30 if you want a counter seat in the first turn.

Plaça de les Olles 8, 08003 Barcelona

Can Sole ★ 4.5

Spanish€€€barceloneta

Can Sole in Barcelona's Barceloneta has run since 1903, now in the fourth generation: marinera cuisine, lobster paella with socarrat, suquet de peix.

Signature: Lobster paella, Suquet de peix

Order: The lobster paella for two and a starter of bacalla fritters.

Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekend lunches; the paella needs 30 minutes from the kitchen.

Carrer de Sant Carles 4, 08003 Barcelona Book →

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