Alose a la bordelaise is the shad fish from the Garonne grilled over vine cuttings then served on a bed of sorrel that helps dissolve the bones, a centuries-old Bordeaux preparation.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
The alose, or shad, runs up the Garonne and Dordogne in spring from the Atlantic to spawn. The Bordeaux preparation pairs it with sorrel because the acid helps soften the many small bones. The dish has been on Bordeaux menus since the medieval period but is increasingly rare as shad populations have declined.
Common allergens: Fish
Tip from the editors. Alose is in season March to May only; outside this window, the dish does not properly exist.
La Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre district is the southwestern French institution founded by Jean-Pierre Xiradakis in 1968, now led by chef Franck Audu.
Signature: Entrecote a la bordelaise, Tricandilles, Sanguette
Tip: Sit near the open fire for the tricandilles; the lunch formula is a serious value if you book ahead for noon on a weekday.
Le Petit Commerce in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the Rue du Parlement seafood institution, with raw oysters from Arcachon and grilled fish from the Atlantic.
Signature: Atlantic oysters, Grilled sardines, Lampreys in season
Tip: Order the oysters by the half-dozen and the grilled pulpitos; the terrace gets the most light from 12:30 onwards.
La Brasserie Bordelaise in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the golden-triangle institution on Rue Saint-Remi with non-stop kitchen service from noon to midnight.
Try: Southwestern French plates, foie gras, cassoulet
Order: Beef cheek a la bordelaise with a glass of Saint-Estephe
Tip: Kitchen runs without a break so a 22:30 plat principal is no problem; book a window table for the after-theatre crowd.
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