The places in Antwerp the guidebooks miss.
The places in Antwerp the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.
't Oud Arsenaal: 1924 brown cafe with unchanged interior, antique wallpaper and two cats curled on a potbelly stove. Weekend opens at 07:30 for the regulars.
Why locals love it: 1924 brown cafe with unchanged interior, antique wallpaper and two cats curled on a potbelly stove. Weekend opens at 07:30 for the regulars.
Tip: Closed Mon-Tue. The Saturday early-morning sitting fills with locals before tourists wake.
Sir Anthony Van Dijck in Antwerp: hidden behind a wooden door in the vlaeykensgang alley, a 1557 dining room with interiors by axel vervoordt.
Why locals love it: Hidden behind a wooden door in the Vlaeykensgang alley, a 1557 dining room with interiors by Axel Vervoordt.
Tip: Reserve for the inner courtyard tables; the alley itself fills with cathedral-bell sound on Sunday afternoons.
Witzli-Poetzli is bohemian artists' bar in the cathedral shadow on blauwmoezelstraat. candle-lit, vintage, open late, mostly known to design-school locals.
Why locals love it: Bohemian artists' bar in the cathedral shadow on Blauwmoezelstraat. Candle-lit, vintage, open late, mostly known to design-school locals.
Tip: The back tables are quieter; the front bar gets loud after 23:00. Cash works best.
Bistro Estelle on Laar in Antwerp's Borgerhout is a tiny fusion kitchen with a natural wine list, east of the ring road off the tourist map entirely.
Why locals love it: Tiny Borgerhout fusion kitchen on Laar. The room is small, the menu fusion, the wine list natural, the location east of the ring road off the tourist map.
Tip: Borgerhout sits east of the ring. The 1, 7 and 24 trams stop two blocks away.
Hoffy's on Lange Kievitstraat in Antwerp's diamond district is a Hungarian kosher counter feeding Belgium's biggest Hasidic crowd; cholent fills fast.
Why locals love it: Hungarian kosher counter in the diamond district feeding Belgium's largest Hasidic community. The cholent on Friday is the under-the-radar Antwerp meal.
Tip: Closed Friday afternoon and Saturday. Friday morning cholent fills fastest with the post-prayer crowd.
Bakkerij FUNK on Kronenburgstraat in Antwerp's Het Zuid is a vegan bakery by morning and natural-wine counter by evening in one corner shop, closed Mon-Tue.
Why locals love it: Vegan bakery and natural-wine counter in one Het Zuid corner shop. The wine cellar at the back opens evenings and is rarely on the tourist map.
Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. The cinnamon-bun pickup is morning; the natural-wine bar is evening.