Why locals love it: North Beach Italian counter since 1896, hand-cutting salumi for the sandwich line out the door; the building has not changed in three generations.

Tip: Order the Special: salami, mortadella, provolone, sun-dried tomato on house focaccia. Bring it to Washington Square.

Location

Address: 373 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94133

More hidden gems in San Francisco

Old Skool Cafe ★ 4.4

Old Skool Cafe in San Francisco is the Bayview supper club run by formerly incarcerated young chefs, with a strong soul-food menu and a music programme on weekends.

Why locals love it: Bayview supper club run by formerly incarcerated youth, with a kitchen that takes a high-bar approach; tourists rarely reach the Bayview.

Tip: Open Thursday to Saturday only; book a week ahead and bring cash for the tip jar.

Tommy's Mexican Restaurant ★ 4.4

Tommy's Mexican Restaurant in San Francisco is the Outer Richmond tequila bar since 1965, with a 400-bottle list and the city's most-cited Margarita spec.

Why locals love it: Tequila bar in the Outer Richmond, founded in 1965, with the world's most-cited Margarita; pilgrim tequila drinkers come, food tourists rarely make the trip.

Tip: Order Tommy's Margarita (lime, blanco tequila, agave nectar); the family invented the spec.

Lers Ros Thai ★ 4.4

Lers Ros Thai in San Francisco is the Larkin Street Thai counter with a 250-dish menu, including frog, boar and catfish larb, opened 2008 by chef Tom Silargorn.

Why locals love it: Tenderloin Thai institution with a 250-dish menu including organ meats and rare regional plates; the kitchen reaches well past pad thai.

Tip: Ask for the regional Thai menu (printed separately); order the boat noodles or the catfish larb.

Swensen's Ice Cream ★ 4.3

Swensen's Ice Cream in San Francisco is the 1948 Russian Hill original near the cable car turnaround, with hand-scooped cones in a small corner shop.

Why locals love it: The 1948 Russian Hill original. The chain went global; the corner shop where Earle Swensen first scooped is still small, family-run and easy to miss.

Tip: Open Wed to Sun only; the chocolate fudge cone with rainbow sprinkles is the kid order, the rum raisin is the right adult.

Rintaro ★ 4.7

Rintaro in San Francisco is Sylvan Mishima Brackett's Mission izakaya, with handmade soba, a robatayaki grill, and a sake list that pulls from small producers.

Why locals love it: Mission izakaya from chef Sylvan Mishima Brackett; bookings are hard, but the bar room takes walk-ins and runs the full menu.

Tip: Walk in for the bar room at 18:00; the kitchen runs the full menu but you do not need a reservation.

San Tung ★ 4.5

San Tung in San Francisco is the Inner Sunset Northern Chinese room famous for dry-fried chicken wings glazed in a sweet soy and garlic sauce; pure cult.

Why locals love it: Northern Chinese counter on Irving Street, far from tourist Chinatown. Locals queue for the dry-fried chicken wings; tourists rarely make it out to the Sunset.

Tip: Dry-fried chicken wings are the order, hands-down; nothing else on the menu hits as hard.

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