Japanese$$$$pacific-beach
Sushi Ota in San Diego is Yukito Ota's Mission Bay Drive room since 1990, the strip-mall sushi counter that has trained more San Diego sushi chefs than any other kitchen in the city.
Signature: Omakase, Uni nigiri, Kanpachi sashimi
Order: The omakase, ordered by sitting at the counter and saying so; the uni nigiri is the indicator of the day's catch.
Tip: Book the counter, not the dining room. The strip-mall location is intentional; ignore the parking lot and step inside.
Steakhouse$$$$east-village
Cowboy Star in San Diego is the East Village steakhouse and butcher shop on 10th Avenue, with an in-house dry-aging programme, an oyster bar and the city's deepest American Wagyu list.
Signature: Dry-aged ribeye, Wagyu burger, Wagyu tartare
Order: The dry-aged bone-in ribeye for two; the Wagyu burger at lunch.
Tip: The butcher shop sells the same cuts at retail; if the menu is booked, buy and cook at home.
Gastropub$$$escondido
Stone Brewing World Bistro and Gardens in Escondido is Stone's flagship destination brewery and restaurant since 2006, the one-acre beer garden, 36-tap room and farm-driven kitchen.
Signature: Stone IPA flight, Beer-braised short ribs, Garden-fresh salads
Order: A Stone IPA flight to compare the eras of the West Coast original; the beer-braised short ribs from the kitchen.
Tip: Take the brewery tour at 1pm before lunch; the back garden is the move on warm afternoons.
Polynesian-Pacific$$$shelter-island
Bali Hai Restaurant in San Diego is the 1955 Shelter Island Tiki institution, with a sprawling Polynesian dining room, a boat dock and the city's most famous Mai Tai pour.
Signature: Mai tai, Bali Hai egg rolls, Polynesian platter
Order: The original Mai Tai (a known-strong recipe since the 1950s); the Polynesian Platter for sharing.
Tip: Sunday brunch is the value play; book a window for sunset over the marina and Point Loma.
Gastropub Asian-influenced$$convoy
Common Theory in San Diego is the Convoy Street gastropub where Asian flavours run through a craft-beer menu, with a long bar, 40 taps and a daily kimchi-and-burger crowd.
Signature: Mongolian BBQ pork ribs, Crispy Brussels sprouts, Burger with kimchi slaw
Order: The Mongolian BBQ ribs; the kimchi-slaw burger with a Pure Project IPA.
Tip: Tuesday Hapa Half-Off runs half-price wines until close; the patio is heater-equipped year-round.
Northern Chinese$$convoy
Tasty Noodle House in San Diego is the Convoy Street northern Chinese noodle counter, with hand-pulled noodles made through the open window and the city's most reliable xiaolongbao.
Signature: Hand-pulled noodles, Xiaolongbao, Dan dan noodles
Order: The Lanzhou hand-pulled beef noodle soup; the xiaolongbao steamer for sharing.
Tip: Cash is fine and faster than card. The dan dan noodles are the room's secret order.