4 late-night dives worth the night across Portugal, editor-ranked. All Portugal guides.
A Ginjinha ★ 4.5 · Lisbon
alfama · Largo de São Domingos 8, 1100-201 Lisboa
A Ginjinha on Largo de São Domingos has poured ginja sour-cherry liquor from a single counter since 1910, the Espinheira family bar that gave the city its standing-up shot tradition by Rossio station.
Tip: One pour, one euro fifty; ask for it com or sem (with or without the cherry). Open every day from 09:00 to midnight; queues are part of the ritual.
Ginjinha Sem Rival ★ 4.4 · Lisbon
alfama · Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 7, 1150-264 Lisboa
Ginjinha Sem Rival on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão has poured ginja and Eduardino aniseed liquor since 1890, a tile-fronted standing counter on the old theatre walk between Rossio and the Coliseu.
Tip: Two house pours: Ginjinha (cherry) and Eduardino (anise). The bar is two metres wide; drink at the counter or take it onto the pavement. Open from 08:00 daily.
O Bom O Mau e O Vilão ★ 4.4 · Lisbon
cais-do-sodre · Rua do Alecrim 21, 1200-014 Lisboa
O Bom O Mau e O Vilão on Rua do Alecrim is the labyrinth cocktail bar named for the Sergio Leone western, several rooms of sofas, low lamps and a weekly jazz and blues live programme over a long list of drinks.
Tip: Open daily from 19:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. The back rooms are the conversation seats; live jazz Wednesday and Thursday nights, DJ sets weekends.
A Tabacaria ★ 4.3 · Lisbon
cais-do-sodre · Rua de São Paulo 75, 1200-426 Lisboa
A Tabacaria on Rua de São Paulo is the old tobacconist turned cocktail tasca in Cais do Sodré, tile facade and wooden counters intact, with a short list of well-made classics and a late-night room.
Tip: Walk-in only; the room is narrow, the back bar is the late seat. Open daily from 15:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. Order the Old Fashioned or whichever the bartender suggests.