Harajuku Gyozaro in Tokyo's Harajuku is the cash-only gyoza specialist on Meiji-dori. Two-item menu, pan-fried or boiled, six gyoza per plate.
Signature: Yaki-gyoza pan-fried dumplings, Sui-gyoza boiled dumplings, Pickled cabbage side
Order: One plate of yaki-gyoza, one of sui-gyoza, with a beer.
Tip: Cash only; expect a 20-minute queue at lunch. Counter and small tables.
Afuri Harajuku in Tokyo is the Yamagata-Kochi yuzu-ramen chain's brightest branch, with a vegan yuzu-shio bowl on the same menu. Open 11:00-23:00 daily.
Signature: Yuzu shio ramen, Yuzu shoyu tsukemen, Vegan yuzu shio ramen
Order: Yuzu shio ramen with chashu and ajitama egg; the vegan version is the equal pick.
Tip: Cashless vending-machine ordering. Tucked behind Tokyu Plaza Omotesando.
Bar Bonobo in Tokyo's Jingumae is a two-storey old house behind Harajuku with vintage Altec speakers and a David Mancuso rotary mixer. Tatami second floor.
Tip: Mid-week is quietest; weekend nights run late with guest DJs. Drinks from 800 yen, cover only on featured events.