The 13th-century island core: cobbled lanes off Stortorget, the Royal Palace, herring counters, smörgåsbord halls and the city's oldest restaurants in vaulted cellars.
Tradition on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan is a tight Old Town room cooking the Swedish home-canon: pyttipanna, kåldolmar, raggmunk and Toast Skagen.
Signature: Pyttipanna Swedish hash, Toast Skagen with bleak roe
Order: Pyttipanna with pickled beetroot and fried egg; the Thursday ärtsoppa with pancakes is the rule.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Lunch is the better sitting; the kitchen runs the dagens lunch sub-150 kronor.
Den Gyldene Freden on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan opened in 1722 and remains the oldest restaurant in continuous operation under the same name in the world.
Signature: Wallenbergare veal patty with mash, Janssons frestelse anchovy potato
Order: Wallenbergare with pea purée, lingonberry and brown butter potatoes.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The vaulted cellar is the heritage room; the upstairs table runs quieter.
Pharmarium on Stortorget in Stockholm's Gamla Stan occupies the city's first public pharmacy from the 17th century; alchemy-themed cocktails served in beakers and bitters.
Signature drink: Bitter-and-tincture cocktails in vintage beakers
Food: Small plates, charcuterie
Tip: Best for the apothecary-themed program; the seated counter is the spot for the bartender-led flight.
Corner Club on Lilla Nygatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan is the Frantzén Group cocktail room behind the Lilla Nygatan facade; classic-leaning drinks, a small bartender-led counter and a tucked-away Old Town address.
Signature drink: Smoky Pineapple with smoky whisky
Food: Bar snacks
Tip: Walk-in friendly. The counter is the bartender-led seat; book ahead on weekends.
Tweed Bar on Lilla Nygatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan is the wood-panelled cocktail room inside Victory Hotel; Chesterfield armchairs, a 15,000-bottle wine cellar and bar food shipped over from Djuret on the same block.
Signature drink: Classics on the rocks from a 2,800-bottle wine cellar
Food: Triple-fried fries, burgers and steak tartare from Djuret next door
Tip: Tue-Sat 17:00-01:00, closed Sunday and Monday. Reservation strongly advised; the room is small and they cap by seats.
Stampen on Stora Nygatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan has run a jazz and blues club in a 17th-century vault since 1968; live music Wednesday through Saturday, walk-in friendly from the Royal Palace.
Signature drink: House beer with live jazz
Food: Bar snacks
Tip: No cover Wednesday through Friday before 21:00. Saturdays a small entry. Music starts 20:30.
Nystekt Strömming on Södermalmstorg in Stockholm at Slussen has fried Baltic herring from a kiosk window for decades; lingonberry, mash and the herring-in-a-roll plate.
Try: Fried Baltic herring in a roll
Tip: Cash sells slightly cheaper. The mash plate is the seated meal; the roll is the takeaway.
Magnus Ladulås on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan is a vaulted cellar dining counter; Toast Skagen, meatballs and traditional Swedish husmanskost in a medieval-themed room.
Try: Swedish husmanskost cellar plates
Tip: Closed Sunday. The cellar fills with tour groups at 13:00; arrive at 12:00 for a seat.
Tradition on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan runs a dagens-lunch sitting at 150 kronor; the Swedish husmanskost menu including pyttipanna, raggmunk and kåldolmar.
Try: Pyttipanna, raggmunk or kåldolmar
Tip: Lunch only 11:30-14:30. The dagens menu includes a salad, bread and water.
Stampen on Stora Nygatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan has run a jazz and blues club in a 17th-century vault since 1968; live music Wednesday through Saturday, walking-distance from the Royal Palace.
Tip: No cover Wednesday through Friday before 21:00. Saturdays charge a small entry.
Pharmarium on Stortorget in Stockholm's Gamla Stan operates the city's first public pharmacy from the 17th century; alchemy-themed cocktails in beakers and bitters and a hushed apothecary room.
Tip: Book the counter for the bartender flight; the back tables fill quietly with regulars.
Corner Club on Lilla Nygatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan runs a tucked-away Frantzén Group cocktail room; whisky-leaning list, tight handwritten cocktail menu and a small bartender-led counter behind the Lilla Nygatan facade.
Tip: Walk-in friendly; the back tables book ahead. Counter seats fill from 19:00 on weekends.