Le Bistrot Flaubert ★ 4.3
Le Bistrot Flaubert in Paris's 17e is the Michel Rostang bistro annex now run by Nicolas Baumann and the Groupe Éclore team. The cooking discipline holds; the room runs at half mothership prices.
Signature: Veal liver, Floating island
Order: Whatever offal main is up, the chocolate dessert, a glass of saint-joseph.
Tip: Lunch is the steal: a two-course set for under €35, including a glass of wine and coffee.