Jolene ★ 4.4
Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim and David Gingell's bakery-cafe on Newington Green in north London, opened 2019, runs sourdough, simple pasta lunches.
Tip: The Brixton arch sibling on Atlantic Road is the south-London twin. Both close by 16:00 on weekends.
Worth the queue: Olive oil cake