Top Late-Night Dives in Japan

La Jetee ★ 4.5 · Tokyo

Golden Gai · Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0021, Japan

La Jetee in Tokyo's Golden Gai has been Tomoyo Kawai's eight-seat film-buff bar for four-plus decades. Named for Chris Marker, French-speaking host.

Tip: Cover charge applies; cash only. Climb the narrow stairs to the second floor at Hanazono 3-ban-gai; tiny room, expect to share.

The Open Book ★ 4.5 · Tokyo

Golden Gai · Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0021, Japan

The Open Book in Tokyo's Golden Gai is Kai Tanaka's lemon-sour specialist on the 5th alley, opened 2015. Books wall-to-wall from the owner's late grandfather.

Tip: The signature lemon sour uses Hiroshima lemons and brown sugar shochu. No cover, cash easiest; six seats, walk-in only.

Albatross G ★ 4.4 · Tokyo

Golden Gai · Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0021, Japan

Albatross G in Tokyo's Golden Gai is the goth-leaning bar on the 5th alley, chandeliers and taxidermy, three small floors, English-friendly.

Tip: Seating fee 500-700 yen, drinks from 600 yen. The roof floor is the quietest; arrive before 22:00 for a stool.

Death Match in Hell ★ 4.3 · Tokyo

Golden Gai · Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0021, Japan

Death Match in Hell in Golden Gai is the metal-and-horror bar covered wall-to-wall in posters, VHS, and figures. Owner Go speaks English and runs B-grade.

Tip: No cover charge; drinks 600-900 yen. Six seats; if it's full, walk the alley and try the next door.

Donzoko ★ 4.3 · Tokyo

Shinjuku · Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0022, Japan

Donzoko in Tokyo's Shinjuku Sanchome is the dive izakaya bar that opened in 1951. Mishima and Kurosawa drank here; the Showa-era counter and side rooms run.

Tip: Cash easiest; the sake menu is the move, ask for a tokkuri pairing. Tucked off Suehiro Street, look for the small lantern.

Hozenji Yokocho Izakaya Strip ★ 3.8 · Osaka

Dotonbori and Namba · 1-8 Namba, Chuo-ku, Osaka 542-0076

The Tenma Tenjinbashi market arcade and surrounding standing izakayas near Tenjinbashisuji represent Osaka's most genuine late-evening dive experience.