Mr Wong ★ 4.6
Merivale's 240-seat Cantonese basement on Bridge Lane in the Sydney CBD. Peking duck carved tableside, yum cha at lunch, dim sum on tea trolleys.
Signature: Peking duck, Sang choi bow, Yum cha
Cantonese small-plate breakfast and lunch tradition: steamed dumplings, baked buns, rice noodle rolls and dessert plates served from rolling trolleys.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
Cantonese yum cha arrived in Sydney with the 1850s gold rush Chinese community and the post-1970s Hong Kong diaspora. Marigold Restaurant on Sussex Street and East Ocean on Dixon Street ran the canonical large-room trolley yum cha through the 1980s and 1990s. The format remains the weekend ritual for Sydney families across Cantonese, Hong Kong and Vietnamese-Chinese communities; modern rooms (Mr Wong, Spice Temple, Yellow's vegan yum cha) extend the canon.
Common allergens: Gluten, Shellfish, Soy, Egg, Sesame
Tip from the editors. Wheat starch (not wheat flour) is essential for the translucent har gow wrapper. Asian groceries sell it as 'wheat starch' or 'tang mian fen'.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Merivale's 240-seat Cantonese basement on Bridge Lane in the Sydney CBD. Peking duck carved tableside, yum cha at lunch, dim sum on tea trolleys.
Signature: Peking duck, Sang choi bow, Yum cha
Neil Perry's Spice Temple sits below the Art Deco City Mutual Building at 10 Bligh Street in the Sydney CBD. Regional Chinese, dark room, sichuan-heavy.
Signature: Stir-fried lamb with cumin, Mapo tofu, Salt-and-pepper squid
More cities are in research. Want sydney yum cha covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.