Kawataro Nakasu Honten ★ 4.1
Live-tank Yobuko squid ikizukuri across three river-view floors. Goma saba mackerel and seasonal Genkai sashimi platters are the supporting acts.
Tip: The Yobuko squid is market price. Lunch courses run 4,500 yen and up.
History
Yobuko is a small fishing port on the Genkai Sea in Saga prefecture, 75 minutes from Hakata. Its squid (kensaki ika in season, kogi ika otherwise) is famous for the live ikizukuri presentation: the fish is killed at the table, sliced and served in 90 seconds while the flesh is still transparent. The format codified in the 1970s as the Yobuko fishing fleet shifted from bulk supply to high-end tourism. Today around twelve restaurants in Yobuko run live-squid tanks; Kawataro and Ikahonke are the most-cited. Squid season runs March through November.
Common allergens: Shellfish, Soy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 fresh squid (700g+), sashimi-grade
- Soy sauce
- Yuzu pepper
- Sliced ginger
- Lemon wedge
Method
- Have your fishmonger clean the squid: remove the head and ink sac, retain the body in one piece.
- Slice the body across the grain into 5mm strips. The flesh should be translucent.
- Arrange on a plate over crushed ice. Plate the head separately, sliced.
- Serve with soy sauce, yuzu pepper, ginger and lemon.
- Eat immediately; transparency lasts about 90 seconds before the flesh goes opaque.
Tip from the editors. Squid sushi-grade must be sourced from a Japanese counter. Pre-frozen squid does not produce the right transparency.
Where to eat yobuko ikizukuri (live squid)
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