History

Xoi xeo and other sticky-rice dishes are an ancient Northern Vietnamese tradition, eaten as breakfast or as a between-meal snack from street stalls. The dish layers turmeric-stained glutinous rice with mashed mung bean and crispy fried shallots. Xoi Yen on Nguyen Huu Huan has anchored the Old Quarter's xoi tradition for decades, with a counter open from 05:00 to 01:00 the next morning.

Common allergens: Pork, Soy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g glutinous rice, soaked 6 hours
  • 1 tsp ground turmeric
  • 200g split yellow mung bean, soaked 4 hours
  • 1 tsp salt
  • Fried shallots and shallot oil (3 tbsp)
  • Caramel pork or pate to top

Method

  1. Drain the glutinous rice and toss with turmeric and 1/2 tsp salt.
  2. Steam in a lined steamer for 25-30 minutes until tender.
  3. Drain and steam the mung bean for 20 minutes until soft. Mash with 1/2 tsp salt while still hot.
  4. Form mung bean into a soft log and slice rounds.
  5. Plate the turmeric rice in bowls; top with mung-bean discs, fried shallots, a drizzle of shallot oil and your choice of caramel pork or pate.

Tip from the editors. Banana leaf parcels keep the rice warm for hours; line the steamer with banana leaf if you can find it.

Where to eat xôi xèo

Xôi Xèo in Hanoi

Xôi Yến ★ 4.4

Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 05:00-01:00Until 01:00Cash only

Xoi Yen in Hanoi runs from 05:00 to 01:00 on Nguyen Huu Huan, plating sticky rice with caramel pork or pate to dawn risers and post-bar wanderers alike.

Try: Xoi xeo sticky rice

Order: Xoi xeo turmeric sticky rice with caramel pork; quickest fuel after midnight.

Tip: Upstairs to sit; takeaway parcels wrapped in banana leaves. Cash only, 20,000-50,000 VND.

35B Nguyen Huu Huan, Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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