History

Txangurro is the Basque word for spider crab (the Cantabrian centollo). The baked preparation (txangurro al horno) was popularised in San Sebastian in the early 20th century at Casa Nicolasa and developed into the canonical Basque seafood plate by the 1960s. The stuffing technique borrows from the French Basque mode of dressing crab in its own shell; the local addition is the brandy or Jerez splash and the breadcrumb top. Ganbara on San Jeronimo runs the canonical pintxo version (small clay dish, baked individually); the full dinner-plate version appears at Casa Urola, Bodegon Alejandro and the Belle Epoque hotel dining rooms.

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Common allergens: Shellfish, Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 cooked Cantabrian spider crab (centollo), 1.2kg
  • 1 small leek, white part only, finely chopped
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons brandy or Spanish Jerez
  • 2 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 1 teaspoon Espelette pepper (or smoked paprika)
  • Sea salt, black pepper
  • 60g fresh white breadcrumbs
  • 30g unsalted butter, cubed
  • Flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Method

  1. Crack the crab and pick all the white meat from the body and the legs, plus the brown meat from the shell. Reserve the shell.
  2. Heat the oil in a wide pan; soften the leek and onion over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes without colouring.
  3. Add the brandy; let the alcohol burn off for 1 minute.
  4. Add the tomato and cook 5 minutes until thick and jammy.
  5. Stir in the white and brown crab meat with the Espelette pepper. Season; cook 2 minutes more.
  6. Spoon the mixture back into the cleaned crab shell (or four small earthenware ramekins).
  7. Top with the breadcrumbs and the butter cubes. Bake at 200C for 12 to 15 minutes until the top is deeply golden.
  8. Finish with parsley; serve in the shell with bread.

Tip from the editors. Use the Cantabrian centollo (spider crab) for the canonical version; brown crab works but lacks the sweet white-meat density. Pick the meat carefully to avoid shell fragments.

Where to eat txangurro al horno

Txangurro al horno in San Sebastián

Ganbara ★ 4.8

€€€ BasqueParte Vieja

Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.

OrderThe autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.

TipCounter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.

Directions Book

Casa Urola ★ 4.5

€€€ Wine bar

Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the most complete Basque wine lists in the Old Town, with Txakoli on tap and a deep.

PourItsasmendi Txakoli by the glass

WineBasque Txakoli, Rioja Alavesa and growers

FoodPintxos counter and full dining room upstairs

TipDrink Txakoli at the counter; the dining room upstairs lets you settle in with a half-bottle of Rioja.

Directions Book

Bodegon Alejandro ★ 4.5

€€€ BasqueParte Vieja

Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.

OrderThe merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.

TipBook the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.

Directions Book

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