History

Eem opened on N Williams in March 2019, a three-way collaboration between Thai chef Earl Ninsom, pitmaster Matt Vicedomini (Matt's BBQ next door at Prost Marketplace) and bartender Eric Nelson. The white curry with burnt brisket ends was the kitchen's marquee dish from the first menu and the one that travelled. Texas Monthly and Bon Appetit both put it on national lists. Ninsom calls it pad pet, Thai for spicy stir-fry, applied to slow-smoked beef. Eem's success spawned Yaowarat (2023) and OK Chicken & Khao Soi (2026). The brisket comes off Vicedomini's offset smoker, then is finished in the curry to order.

Common allergens: Shellfish (fish sauce), Tree nuts (coconut)

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 12 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 1kg cooked smoked brisket point (about 1.4kg raw), at room temperature
  • 400ml coconut milk (full-fat)
  • 200ml coconut cream
  • 4 tbsp Thai red curry paste
  • 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised
  • 6 kaffir lime leaves, torn
  • 3 tbsp fish sauce
  • 2 tbsp palm sugar
  • 1 tbsp tamarind paste
  • Thai basil, sliced red chillies and jasmine rice (to serve)

Method

  1. Smoke a brisket point overnight at 110C for 10 to 12 hours until it probes tender at 95C internal. Rest 1 hour, then chop into 3cm cubes; reserve the burnt ends from the bark separately.
  2. Heat the curry paste in a wide pan over medium with 4 tbsp coconut cream until the oil splits red, 3 minutes.
  3. Add remaining coconut milk, coconut cream, lemongrass and lime leaves. Simmer 10 minutes uncovered.
  4. Add fish sauce, palm sugar and tamarind paste. Taste; adjust salt-sweet-sour balance.
  5. Stir in the chopped brisket cubes and burnt ends. Simmer 5 minutes just to warm through.
  6. Spoon over jasmine rice and finish with Thai basil and sliced red chillies.

Tip from the editors. Use the burnt ends; their bark gives the curry the smoke depth that store-bought brisket can't fake.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat thai bbq brisket curry

Thai BBQ Brisket Curry in Portland

Eem ★ 4.7

Thai BBQ$$mississippi-williams

The Earl Ninsom, Eric Nelson and Matt Vicedomini collaboration on N Williams in Portland, where Thai marinade meets Texas-style smoked beef brisket.

Signature: White curry with burnt brisket ends, Crispy chicken

Order: White curry with burnt brisket ends over jasmine rice

Tip: The cocktail list is the Eric Nelson programme that earned the room a James Beard semifinalist nod. Order the tamarind whisky sour.

Matt's BBQ ★ 4.6

mississippi-williams

Matt Vicedomini's smoker on N Mississippi at Prost Marketplace in Portland, a brisket sandwich on white bread with pickles for $14, eat at the heated patio.

Try: Brisket sandwich

Tip: Order the sandwich or by the half-pound. Sides cost extra; the brisket is the meal.

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