History

The Chesapeake blue crab (Callinectes sapidus) is the defining commercial seafood of the Maryland-DC region; the Tidewater watermen of Maryland have harvested them commercially since the 19th century. The Old-Bay-and-vinegar steaming format codified in the early 20th century at Baltimore and DC crab houses. The Maine Avenue Fish Market in DC sells live blue crabs by the dozen and bushel, and crab houses across the DC metro area run all-you-can-eat steamed crabs from May through October. The Old Bay seasoning blend, developed in Baltimore by Gustav Brunn in 1939 and now owned by McCormick, is non-negotiable.

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Common allergens: Shellfish, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 12 large live Maryland blue crabs (jumbo male crabs are preferred; sold at fishmongers near the Chesapeake, frozen substitutes do not work for the steamed-crab ritual)
  • 750ml apple cider vinegar (or distilled white vinegar)
  • 750ml flat domestic American pilsner beer or water (the steam carrier)
  • 1 cup (200g) Old Bay seasoning, plus more for the table
  • 1/4 cup (40g) coarse sea salt
  • 1 tbsp celery seed (optional, for the Baltimore touch)
  • 1 large heavy pot with a tight lid and a steamer rack
  • For the table: 250g melted unsalted butter (in a small warm dish for dipping), 1 lemon cut in wedges, brown butcher paper for the table, wooden crab mallets and crab picks (sold at Chesapeake hardware stores; substitute with nutcrackers and seafood forks)
  • Cold local beer or sweet tea (the Chesapeake convention)
  • Optional sides: corn on the cob, hush puppies, coleslaw, German potato salad

Method

  1. Set up the steam pot: pour the vinegar and beer (or water) into a heavy 8L pot with a tight-fitting lid; the liquid should be about 5cm deep at the bottom. Set a wire rack or steamer basket above the liquid line.
  2. Bring the liquid to a hard boil over high heat.
  3. While the liquid heats, mix the Old Bay seasoning with the coarse sea salt and optional celery seed in a small bowl.
  4. Once the liquid is at a rolling boil, lay the live crabs in the steamer basket in layers, sprinkling each layer generously with the Old Bay-and-salt mixture (the seasoning must coat every crab; the heavy hand is the structural step).
  5. Cover the pot tightly with a heavy lid. Steam for 22 to 25 minutes for jumbo crabs (smaller crabs 18 to 20 minutes); the crabs should turn bright orange-red and remain motionless.
  6. While the crabs steam, cover the dining table with thick brown butcher paper, set out crab mallets, picks, small dishes of melted butter at each setting, lemon wedges and extra Old Bay in shakers.
  7. Lift the steamed crabs out of the pot with tongs into a large bowl or directly onto the paper-covered table; the crabs should dump in a single steaming pile in the centre.
  8. Sprinkle an additional handful of Old Bay over the hot pile while still steaming.
  9. To eat (the Chesapeake convention): pull off the apron (the small flap on the underside), then the carapace (top shell); remove the gills (the spongy 'devil's fingers' fingers; do not eat them); twist off the claws and crack with the mallet on the lump joint; pick the meat from the chambers with the small fork; dip in melted butter, sprinkle a fresh pinch of Old Bay, eat. Repeat for 90 minutes minimum.
  10. Drink ice-cold National Bohemian beer (the Baltimore canon) or sweet tea throughout.

Tip from the editors. The structural rule is using live crabs; pre-cooked or frozen crabs do not give the right texture. The heavy Old Bay coating is essential; underseasoning is the worst sin in a Chesapeake crab house. Plan for at least 90 minutes at the table; eating steamed crabs is a slow social ritual, not a meal to rush.

Where to eat old bay steamed blue crabs

Old Bay Steamed Blue Crabs in Washington DC

Maine Avenue Fish Market ★ 4.4

$ Street food

Maine Avenue Fish Market in Washington DC is the Southwest Waterfront open-air seafood market on Maine Avenue, the oldest continuously-operating open-air.

TryBoiled blue crabs and shrimp by the pound

TipPre-cooked seafood is sold by the pound; carry the brown bag to a Wharf bench for a $30 lunch for two.

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