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Rome Original Spritz & Spaghetti Cooking Class
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History
Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino is a Neapolitan invention from the 19th century, born of cucina povera (poor cooking) using only Campania pantry staples: durum-wheat pasta, Neapolitan garlic (Allium neapolitanum), Campania extra-virgin olive oil, and the chilli that Neapolitan folk-belief considers a charm against bad luck. It became Italy's most-cooked midnight pasta, the spaghetti di mezzanotte you make after the wine has run out. Traditional Neapolitan preparation NEVER adds cheese; the dish is too pure to need it.
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Common allergens: Gluten
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g dry spaghetti (Gragnano IGP for the proper Neapolitan version)
- 120ml extra-virgin olive oil (Campania DOP, best quality you can afford)
- 6 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced (NOT minced)
- 2 dried Calabrian red chillies (peperoncini), broken into pieces (or 1 tsp red chilli flakes)
- Sea salt for the pasta water
- Small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (optional, not strictly Neapolitan)
- Black pepper (optional)
Method
- Bring 4L water to a rolling boil. Add 2 tbsp salt (the water should taste like the sea).
- Drop in the spaghetti. Stir to prevent sticking.
- Meanwhile, in a wide cold frying pan, combine the olive oil, sliced garlic and broken chillies. Set over medium-low heat.
- Cook 4 to 5 minutes, never letting the garlic go past pale gold. Burnt garlic ruins the dish.
- Just before the spaghetti is al dente (1 minute before package time), scoop out 250ml of the starchy pasta water.
- Drain the spaghetti, reserving the pasta water.
- Tip the spaghetti into the oil pan. Add 100ml of the pasta water.
- Toss vigorously over medium-high heat for 60 seconds; the starch in the pasta water emulsifies with the oil to form a glossy slick that coats the spaghetti.
- If too dry, splash in more pasta water; if too wet, toss longer over heat.
- Plate immediately. Scatter parsley if using. No cheese.
Tip from the editors. Emulsification depends on starchy pasta water; never use plain water and never drain too thoroughly. Cook garlic in COLD oil that you bring up to heat.
Where to eat spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino
Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino in Naples
Trattoria Nennella ★ 4.5
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs a 12-euro three-course lunch with shouted orders, pasta e patate con provola and the daily Quartieri Spagnoli.
TryThree-course working-class lunch
TipCash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner; no bookings.
Ristorante Umberto ★ 4.2
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and spaghetti alle vongole anchoring.
Book1 week ahead
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Tandem Ragu ★ 4.2
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern ragu specialist that runs seven rooms on separate streets, with the Sunday-ragu ritual available daily.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano with bread to mop the sauce.
Why locals goSeven rooms on separate streets across the centro storico run the same ragu napoletano carte from noon to midnight.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30. The paccheri al ragu is 6 euros; bread for mopping is included.
Da Ettore ★ 4.3
Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas.
OrderPagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.
TipClosed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio ★ 4.5
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio on Via Paladino in Naples' Spaccanapoli is Vittorio Fortunato's Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria (opened 2019), with pasta e patate.
OrderPasta e patate con provola, genovese, mezzanelli alla scarpariello in the daily carte.
TipClosed Monday. Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-23:00 in two seatings (19:00, 21:30). Book ahead even for lunch.
Osteria della Mattonella ★ 4.2
Osteria della Mattonella in Naples' Toledo quarter runs the home-style Neapolitan carte with daily pasta specials, polpette napoletane and the genovese.
OrderGenovese pasta, polpette napoletane, pasta e fagioli.
TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekends; the genovese runs all-day.
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