History
The giant Sonoran flour tortilla is a borderland craft, stretched by hand and cooked on a hot comal until it is paper-thin and supple, sometimes wide enough to fold a full burro. Arizona inherited the tradition from Sonora, and Phoenix tortilla factories and family kitchens still turn them out warm. Carolina's built its reputation on them, and La Sonorense sells them by the dozen.
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Common allergens: Gluten
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g flour
- 1 tsp salt
- 60g lard or shortening
- 240ml warm water
Method
- Mix flour and salt, then rub in the lard until the mix looks like coarse crumbs.
- Add warm water gradually and knead into a smooth, soft dough.
- Divide into 8 balls, cover and rest 30 minutes so the gluten relaxes.
- On a warm surface, stretch each ball by hand and rolling pin until very thin and wide, almost translucent.
- Cook on a dry hot comal or skillet for 30 to 45 seconds per side, until just speckled.
- Keep the tortillas wrapped in a cloth to stay soft and pliable.
Tip from the editors. Rest the dough and stretch it warm; cold dough springs back and you will never get the tissue-thin Sonoran stretch.
Where to eat sonoran flour tortilla
Sonoran flour tortilla in Phoenix
La Sonorense Tortilla Factory ★ 4.4
La Sonorense Tortilla Factory on South Central stretches the giant tortillas de agua that define Sonoran cooking, sold warm by the dozen in South Phoenix.
Worth the queueLarge hand-stretched Sonoran flour tortillas
TipBuy a stack of the big flour tortillas warm; they are the base for a proper Sonoran burro.
Asadero Norte de Sonora ★ 4.4
Asadero Norte de Sonora on 16th Street is a neighbourhood Sonoran grill, turning out mesquite carne asada wrapped in house-made flour tortillas.
OrderCarne asada tacos on the giant house-made flour tortillas.
TipClosed Wednesdays; the grilled chicken is as good as the beef if the asada line is long.
Sonoran flour tortilla in Scottsdale
Los Olivos Mexican Patio ★ 4.2
Los Olivos Mexican Patio in Old Town Scottsdale is a four-generation Sonoran restaurant open since 1947, known for cheese crisps and Mexican Flag Enchiladas.
OrderA cheese crisp to start, then the Mexican Flag Enchiladas with both red and green sauce.
TipTortillas and salsas are made by hand; ask for the Blue Room or the inside patio when you are seated.
Ajo Al's Agua Caliente Plaza ★ 3.8
Ajo Al's Agua Caliente Plaza is the Scottsdale branch of a family-run Sonoran-style Mexican cafe with smoked street tacos and Mexican pizzas since 1986.
OrderThe smoked street tacos and a Mexican pizza, with a frozen margarita.
TipOn Shea Boulevard; the other Scottsdale branch is on 90th Street, and the site lists Taco Tuesday and happy hour menus.
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