History

Smith Island cake originated on Smith Island in the Chesapeake Bay in the 19th century, baked thin in cast-iron pans by watermen's wives for the long fishing trips. The thin layers allowed the cake to keep without drying out. Maryland declared it the official state dessert in 2008. Baltimore bakeries including Patisserie Poupon, Harmony Bakery and Pitango Bakery + Cafe sell whole cakes for special occasions and slices over the counter.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 2 hrTotal 5 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • For 10 thin yellow-cake layers: 480g all-purpose flour
  • 3 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 340g unsalted butter softened
  • 600g caster sugar
  • 5 large eggs
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • 480ml whole milk
  • For the fudge frosting: 450g unsalted butter
  • 1kg semisweet chocolate chopped
  • 800ml evaporated milk
  • 600g caster sugar
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • pinch of salt

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 175C. Grease ten 22cm round cake pans (or work in batches if you have fewer; one batter makes 10 thin layers).
  2. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt.
  3. Beat the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy, 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, then the vanilla.
  4. Alternate adding the dry ingredients and the milk in three additions, ending with the dry.
  5. Divide the batter evenly between the cake pans, around 200g per pan; spread to the edges.
  6. Bake 2 to 3 pans at a time at 175C for 10 to 12 minutes until just golden at the edges and springy on top. Cool fully on a wire rack.
  7. For the frosting: melt the butter, chocolate and evaporated milk in a heavy pan over low heat. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve.
  8. Bring to a low simmer and cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly, until the frosting thickens and coats the back of a spoon heavily. Off the heat, stir in vanilla and salt. Cool 15 minutes; it firms as it cools.
  9. Place the first cake layer on a serving plate. Spread 80g of frosting evenly across. Top with another layer; repeat with all layers.
  10. Spread the remaining frosting generously over the top and sides.
  11. Refrigerate 2 hours to firm fully before slicing. The cake keeps a week refrigerated.

Tip from the editors. Layers must be paper-thin; spread aggressively to the edges of each pan. Cool fully before frosting or the cake slides apart.

Where to eat smith island cake

Smith Island cake in Baltimore

Patisserie Poupon ★ 4.7

Bakery$downtownTue-Sat, mornings to afternoonClassic French patisserie

Patisserie Poupon near the Shot Tower is Joseph Poupon's French bakery, turning out laminated croissants, macarons and glossy fruit tarts since the 1980s.

Tip: It is a true French patisserie near the Shot Tower; the fruit tarts and eclairs sell out by midday.

Worth the queue: Croissants and fruit tarts

820 East Baltimore Street, Baltimore, MD 21202

Harmony Bakery ★ 4.2

Bakery$hampdenTue-Sun, mornings to afternoonVegan and gluten-free baking

Harmony Bakery in Hampden is Baltimore's vegan and gluten-free bakery, turning out dairy-free cakes, cookies and pastries from a small Chestnut Avenue shop.

Tip: Everything is vegan and most is gluten-free; the cinnamon rolls go fast on weekend mornings.

Worth the queue: Vegan gluten-free cakes and cookies

3446 Chestnut Avenue, Baltimore, MD 21211

Cross Street Market ★ 4.1

Market$federal-hillDaily, daytime to evening

Cross Street Market is Federal Hill's neighbourhood public market, renovated into a modern hall of oyster bars, taco counters and a central bar at its core.

Tip: The central bar and oyster counter make it a destination for happy hour, not just lunch.

1065 South Charles Street, Baltimore, MD 21230

Pitango Bakery + Cafe ★ 4.5

Bakery$fells-pointDaily, mornings to eveningBreads, pastry and gelato

Pitango Bakery + Cafe in Fells Point pairs naturally-leavened breads and laminated pastries with the company's own gelato, a corner cafe on South Ann Street.

Tip: It shares roots with Pitango Gelato; pair a morning pastry with a scoop in the afternoon.

Worth the queue: Naturally-leavened bread and gelato

903 South Ann Street, Baltimore, MD 21231

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