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History
Baltic herring, silakka, has fed Helsinki for centuries, sold from boats at the South Harbour and celebrated each October at the Baltic Herring Market held since 1743. Fried whole with rye flour or pickled in endless cures, it is the city's defining everyday fish, served from market stalls and at traditional rooms like Elite.
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Common allergens: Fish, Gluten
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 800g fresh Baltic herring (or small sardines), butterflied
- 150g rye flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- Black pepper
- Butter and oil for frying
- To serve: mashed potato, lemon, dill
Method
- Pat the butterflied herring dry and season the rye flour with salt and pepper.
- Press each fish into the rye flour to coat both sides.
- Heat butter and a little oil in a wide pan until foaming.
- Fry the herring skin-side first for about 2 minutes a side until crisp and golden.
- Drain briefly and serve with mashed potato, a squeeze of lemon and dill.
Tip from the editors. Press two fillets together flesh-to-flesh before flouring for the classic fried-herring sandwich shape.
Where to eat silakka (baltic herring)
Silakka (Baltic herring) in Helsinki
Elite ★ 4.1
Elite in Töölö has been the artists' restaurant since 1932, its walls hung with paintings, serving Finnish classics like vorschmack and fried Baltic herring.
OrderVorschmack, the minced-meat hash, or the platter of fried Baltic herring with mash.
TipThe terrace and the artist-portrait walls are the draw as much as the food. A living room for Helsinki's cultural set since 1932.
Market Square (Kauppatori) ★ 4.2
Kauppatori, the open-air market on the South Harbour, is where herring boats tie up each October; summer stalls fry vendace and pile up Finnish berries.
TipBest in summer for fried lake fish and berries, and during the October herring market. Watch for aggressive seagulls.
Old Market Hall (Vanha Kauppahalli) ★ 4.6
The Old Market Hall by the South Harbour opened in 1889 as Helsinki's first indoor hall; stalls sell smoked fish, reindeer, cheeses and salmon soup.
TipSoppakeittiö inside serves the classic lohikeitto salmon soup with unlimited bread. The hall closes by early evening, so come for lunch.
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