Shin Yeh Shuanglian ★ 4.4
Why locals love it: Round-table Taiwanese banquet cooking in Zhongshan since 1977, the family-table standard locals book for new-year reunion meals.
Tip: Phone reservations. Service charge added.
Ma you ji is the winter Taiwanese tonic soup: chicken pieces fried in toasted sesame oil with ginger and rice wine, simmered into a deep amber broth.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
Sesame oil chicken is a Hokkien postpartum confinement food (yue zi), traditionally given to mothers in the month after childbirth. Black sesame oil is heated until smoking, the deep ginger fried in it gives the soup its characteristic warmth. Now eaten across Taipei in winter (November to March), often at night markets and home kitchens. Shin Yeh and Mountain and Sea House both run the dish on their winter menus.
Common allergens: Sesame, Alcohol
Tip from the editors. The ginger must be browned in the sesame oil first; this is what gives the soup depth. Mijiu rice wine is the Taiwan canon; Shaoxing substitutes but is sweeter.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Why locals love it: Round-table Taiwanese banquet cooking in Zhongshan since 1977, the family-table standard locals book for new-year reunion meals.
Tip: Phone reservations. Service charge added.
Why locals love it: A restored Japanese-era mansion on Ren'ai Road in Taipei reviving 1930s Taiwanese banquet cuisine, often missed for the louder Le Palais.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Reserve through the operator's site.
More cities are in research. Want sesame oil chicken soup covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.