History

The mutton pie was the working-man's lunch of nineteenth-century Edinburgh, made cheap by the offcuts and the hot-water-crust pastry that holds shape without a tin. The double-crust round, eight centimetres across, became the Scottish standard through the early 1900s and survived as the football-ground default into the present. The World Scotch Pie Championships have run since 1999; Edinburgh bakeries place reliably each year. The Royal Mile bakeries still sell them by the tray-load to office-lunch trade.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • For the hot-water-crust: 400g plain flour, 1 tsp salt, 100g lard, 100ml boiling water
  • For the filling: 500g minced mutton or lamb shoulder (20 percent fat)
  • 1 small onion, very finely chopped
  • 60g day-old breadcrumbs
  • 100ml lamb or beef stock
  • 1 tsp ground white pepper
  • 0.5 tsp ground mace
  • 0.5 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 egg, beaten, for glaze

Method

  1. Mix the mince, onion, breadcrumbs, stock, white pepper, mace, nutmeg and salt in a bowl. Cover and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
  2. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Melt the lard in the boiling water in a pan. Pour the hot liquid into the flour and mix quickly with a wooden spoon to a smooth dough.
  3. While the pastry is still warm and pliable, divide it into 6 portions plus 6 smaller lids.
  4. Form each portion around a small jam jar or pie mould, building walls about 8cm wide and 6cm tall. Remove the mould. Chill for 10 minutes to firm up.
  5. Heat the oven to 200C. Spoon the filling into each pastry case, packing firmly. Roll out the lids and crimp on top, leaving a 1cm steam hole in the centre.
  6. Brush the lids with beaten egg. Sit pies on a baking sheet lined with parchment.
  7. Bake for 50 minutes until the pastry is deep golden and the filling is bubbling through the hole at 75C internal.
  8. Rest 10 minutes before eating. The filling sets slightly and the pie holds shape when bitten.

Tip from the editors. Hot-water-crust is unforgiving once cool; work fast while it is still warm to the touch. Lard, not butter, gives the right crisp shatter.

Where to eat scotch pie

Scotch pie in Edinburgh

Howies ★ 4.0

Modern Scottish££old-townThu 11:30-14:30, Sun 17:00-21:15, Sun 11:30-15:00

Howies on Victoria Street in Edinburgh, the Old Town flagship of David Howie Scott's Scottish-bistro mini-chain opened in 1990, the city's everyday Scottish.

Signature: Haggis bonbons with whisky cream, Aberdeen Angus steak

Order: Haggis bonbons with whisky cream as a starter and the Aberdeen Angus steak with peppercorn sauce.

Tip: Pre-theatre two-course menu from 17:30-19:00 is the value play. The Waterloo Place branch is the second-best room.

The Scran and Scallie ★ 4.5

Scottish Gastropub££stockbridgeDaily 12:00-21:00

Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack's Stockbridge gastropub in Edinburgh, opened in 2013, the casual sibling to The Kitchin running British classics in a Comely.

Order: Fish and chips with mushy peas, or the Sunday roast that books out a week ahead.

Tip: Children's menu is taken seriously here; meatballs and mash is a proper plate.

Oink ★ 4.6

Scottish£old-townDaily 11:00-18:00

Oink hog roast counter on Victoria Street in Edinburgh Old Town, carving a whole suckling pig from 11:00 daily, the city's best £8 lunch in a roll.

Try: Hog roast roll with haggis stuffing

Tip: Closes when the pig runs out, often before 15:00 on busy days. The haggis-stuffed version is the authentic Edinburgh choice.

The Dome ★ 4.1

Scottish£££new-townDaily 12:00-00:00

The Dome on George Street in Edinburgh's New Town, opened in 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand brasserie room running.

Signature: Scottish smoked salmon platter, Roast beef Wellington

Order: Smoked salmon platter at lunch and the roast beef Wellington at dinner under the central dome.

Tip: The Georgian Tea Room at the back is a quieter alternative if the main hall feels too touristy at peak hours.

Edinburgh Larder Bakehouse ★ 4.4

Bakery£old-townTue-Sat 09:00-15:00Walk-in onlyBread and pies

Edinburgh Larder's bake counter on Blackfriars Street in the Old Town of Edinburgh, opened 2009, baking Scotch pies, sausage rolls, sourdough loaves.

Tip: Pies are at the counter from 11:00 to lunch; loaves sell through the morning. Friday list runs on the website.

Worth the queue: Scotch pie

Scotch pie in Glasgow

University Cafe ★ 4.2

British gastropub£west-endMon 09:00-22:00; Tue closed; Wed-Thu 09:00-22:00; Fri 09:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 09:00-22:00

Why locals love it: A century-old, fourth-generation Italian-Scots cafe on busy Byres Road that most passers-by walk straight past for the nearby chains.

Tip: Sit in one of the original wooden booths and finish with the double-cream ice cream made on-site.

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