History

Schweinsbraten descends from Bavarian rural slow-roasting traditions, where the cheaper pork shoulder was cooked low and slow with beer and caraway. The Munich Wirtshaus version, plated with a bread Knödel and a dark beer gravy, became the canonical Sunday-lunch order during the 19th century; the Augustiner-Stammhaus version, served since 1829, is the city's longest-running iteration.

Common allergens: Gluten (in gravy)

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg pork shoulder, skin scored
  • 2 large onions, sliced
  • 2 carrots, sliced
  • 1 leek, sliced
  • 500ml dark beer (Märzen or Doppelbock)
  • 500ml chicken stock
  • 2 tbsp caraway seeds
  • 1 tbsp mustard seeds
  • Salt, black pepper
  • 2 tbsp lard or oil
  • 30g cold butter, for finishing the gravy

Method

  1. Heat oven to 160 degrees C. Salt the pork shoulder skin and rub with caraway, mustard seeds and pepper.
  2. Sear the pork skin-side down in a heavy pan with hot lard until deep golden, 5 minutes per side.
  3. Spread sliced vegetables in a roasting tray. Place pork on top, skin up. Pour beer and stock around the meat.
  4. Roast covered 90 minutes. Uncover, raise heat to 220 degrees C, roast 30 to 45 minutes more until the skin crackles.
  5. Rest the pork 15 minutes. Strain the pan juices, reduce by half over high heat, then whisk in cold butter for the gravy.
  6. Slice the pork against the grain. Serve with two bread Knödel and dark beer gravy.

Tip from the editors. If the crackling won't crisp, finish under a hot grill for 3 minutes with constant watching. It burns fast.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat schweinsbraten

Schweinsbraten in Munich

Augustiner-Stammhaus ★ 4.2

Bavarian€€altstadt-lehel

Augustiner-Stammhaus on Munich's Neuhauser Strasse pedestrian zone has been pouring Augustiner since 1829; the city's oldest Augustiner room.

Order: Schweinsbraten with two dumplings; pair with Augustiner Helles tapped from the wooden cask.

Tip: Ask for the Muschelsaal (Seashell hall) when reserving; it is the most atmospheric room.

Hofbräukeller ★ 4.2

Bavarian€€haidhausen

Hofbräukeller on Wiener Platz in Munich Haidhausen is the calmer Hofbräu room; the city's locals come here rather than the Hofbräuhaus tourist hall.

Order: A Mass of Hofbräu Helles with Schweinsbraten and dark gravy.

Tip: The beer garden on Wiener Platz is family-friendly; the self-service section lets you bring a picnic.

Wirtshaus Ayinger am Platzl ★ 4.2

Bavarian€€altstadt-lehel

Wirtshaus Ayinger am Platzl is the Ayinger brewery's Munich flagship across from Hofbräuhaus; eight draught beers run on tap, the kitchen cooks regional Bavarian.

Order: A Mass of Bräu-Helles with Schweinsbraten and a soft pretzel; weekday lunch sets are the bargain.

Tip: Quieter than the Hofbräuhaus neighbour; book upstairs for parties of six or more.

Spatenhaus an der Oper ★ 4.3

Bavarian€€€altstadt-lehel

Spatenhaus an der Oper, opposite the Bavarian State Opera in Munich's Altstadt, pours Spaten beer and cooks classic Bavarian; the suckling pig is the signature.

Signature: Wiener Schnitzel, Suckling pig with red cabbage

Order: The Wiener Schnitzel with cucumber salad; the suckling pig with braised red cabbage if you want one big plate.

Tip: Book the upstairs room for opera pre-shows; the ground floor is the casual side.

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