History

Pork charcuterie has defined Lyon's food culture since the medieval period, when the city's position on the Rhone trade route made it a hub for preserved meats moving north from Provence and south from Burgundy. The saucisson de Lyon, made from coarsely ground pork shoulder with back fat and a mild spice blend, settled into its current form in the 19th century as the working-meal staple of the canut quarter. Today it appears on every Label Bouchons Lyonnais menu as a protected category under the association's quality rules.

Common allergens: Pork, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 800g pork shoulder, roughly minced
  • 200g pork back fat, finely diced
  • 14g salt
  • 2g white pepper
  • 1g quatre-epices
  • Natural pork casing (chaudin or large diameter)
  • 1 tbsp Cognac

Method

  1. Combine the minced pork shoulder, back fat, salt, pepper, quatre-epices and Cognac. Mix by hand for 3 minutes to bind the fat into the lean without over-working.
  2. Stuff loosely into the casing and tie both ends firmly. Prick the skin all over with a needle to prevent bursting.
  3. Poach in gently simmering water (never boiling) at 80C for 1.5 hours. The casing should not split and the internal temperature should reach 72C.
  4. Rest the sausage in the poaching water off the heat for 15 minutes before slicing.
  5. Serve in thick slices with boiled potatoes dressed in butter and a jar of Dijon mustard.

Tip from the editors. The poaching temperature is the critical variable: above 85C and the casing ruptures; at 75C it is cooked perfectly in the same time. A probe thermometer saves a wasted afternoon.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat saucisson de lyon

Saucisson de Lyon in Lyon

Le Garet ★ 4.5

Lyonnais bouchon€€1er

Le Garet on Rue du Garet in Lyon's 1er is the canonical bouchon, four blocks from the Opera, with a chalkboard menu that hasn't really changed in 30 years.

Signature: Tablier de sapeur, Quenelle de brochet

Order: Tablier de sapeur to start, then the quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; book a fortnight ahead for the dinner service.

More cities are in research. Want saucisson de lyon covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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