History

Saoto soep arrived in Amsterdam with the Surinamese diaspora after Suriname's 1975 independence. The soup traces back to Indonesian-Javanese soto, brought to Suriname by 19th-century Javanese plantation labourers, then carried to Amsterdam by the Surinamese-Hindustani-Javanese community. Warung Mini on Ceintuurbaan and Spang Makandra on Gerard Doustraat are the city's two reference rooms.

Common allergens: Egg, Soy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 whole chicken, about 1.4kg, jointed
  • 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised
  • 4cm fresh ginger, sliced
  • 3 garlic cloves, smashed
  • 4 kaffir lime leaves, 1 tsp white peppercorns, 2 tsp sea salt
  • 2 medium waxy potatoes, peeled, cut into 1cm cubes
  • 4 large eggs, hard-boiled and halved
  • 200g fresh bean sprouts
  • 150g jasmine rice, cooked, for serving
  • 4 large shallots, finely sliced and crisp-fried in 200ml oil
  • Fresh celery leaves and spring onion, finely chopped
  • Kecap manis and sambal oelek, for the table

Method

  1. Place the chicken in a large pot with 2L cold water, the lemongrass, ginger, garlic, lime leaves, peppercorns and salt. Bring slowly to a low simmer, skimming the foam.
  2. Cover loosely and poach for 1 hour until the broth is clear and aromatic and the chicken pulls easily from the bone.
  3. Lift out the chicken, shred the meat from the bones in long strands and return the bones to the pot. Reduce 20 more minutes, then strain into a clean pot and check for salt.
  4. While the broth reduces, fry the cubed potatoes in 4 tbsp oil over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes until crisp and golden; drain on paper.
  5. Blanch the bean sprouts for 20 seconds in boiling water and refresh in iced water.
  6. Set each bowl with a mound of cooked rice on one side, then top with shredded chicken, bean sprouts, fried potato cubes and a halved egg.
  7. Ladle the very hot broth over the top, shower with crispy shallots, celery leaves and spring onion. Serve with kecap manis and sambal on the side.

Tip from the editors. The broth must be very lightly seasoned and crystal clear; cloudy stock means the simmer was too aggressive. Pull the heat back if the surface ever rolls.

Where to eat saoto soep

Saoto Soep in Amsterdam

Warung Mini ★ 4.3

Surinamese€€Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri 12:00-22:00, Sat 11:00-22:00, Sun 13:00-22:00

Warung Mini is small ceintuurbaan counter most guidebooks skip for the more famous spang makandra; this is where locals come for the city's best saoto soep.

Why locals love it: Small Ceintuurbaan counter most guidebooks skip for the more famous Spang Makandra; this is where locals come for the city's best saoto soep.

Tip: Closed Mondays; arrive before 13:00 for the proper lunch service.

Warung Spang Makandra ★ 4.4

Surinamesede-pijpMon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-22:00

Warung Spang Makandra has been the De Pijp Surinamese reference since 1978: roti you assemble yourself, saoto soup, almost nothing on the menu over 15 euros.

Signature: Roti kip, Saoto soep, Moksi meti

Order: Roti kip with the dahl and a side of the bean stew.

Tip: Walk-in only. Order at the counter, sit upstairs. A second Spang Makandra branch in Nieuw West takes the overflow.

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