Matt Kelly's salt cod croquetas are the single dish most associated with Mateo Bar de Tapas and the starting point for virtually every visiting food writer's meal. The combination of a properly bechamel-bound bacalao filling, a shattering-thin fried crust and the house aioli created a benchmark for Spanish cooking in the American South that has not been matched elsewhere in the Triangle. Kelly has been a perennial James Beard Best Chef Southeast semifinalist, and the croqueta is the dish most associated with that recognition.