History

Rocky Mountain oysters arrived in Denver with the Front Range cattle trade in the 1860s, a ranch-economy use of branding-season byproducts. The Buckhorn Exchange, opened in 1893 by Henry H. Zietz, kept them on the menu through the 20th century alongside elk and bison. The Testicle Festival in Throckmorton, Texas popularised the dish nationally; in Denver, Buckhorn and a handful of old-school steakhouses still run them as a starter. The dish remains a tourist initiation more than a serious local staple.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g bull testicles (calf fries), from a butcher; thawed if frozen
  • 240ml buttermilk
  • 150g all-purpose flour
  • 50g cornmeal
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • Salt and black pepper
  • Vegetable oil for frying
  • For sauce: 120g sour cream, 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, salt

Method

  1. Slip the tough outer membrane off the testicles. Slice into thin 6mm rounds.
  2. Soak slices in buttermilk in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
  3. Combine flour, cornmeal, paprika, garlic powder, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a shallow bowl.
  4. Heat 5cm of oil in a heavy pot to 180C (350F).
  5. Lift slices from buttermilk, let drip; toss in seasoned flour to coat fully.
  6. Fry in batches 2 to 3 minutes until golden and crisp. Drain on paper towels.
  7. Whisk sauce ingredients. Serve oysters hot with horseradish cream and cocktail sauce.

Tip from the editors. Source from a real butcher or feedlot supplier in spring branding season. Quality drops fast in frozen storage; ask if your supplier flash-froze within 24 hours of slaughter.

Where to eat rocky mountain oysters

Rocky Mountain oysters in Denver

Bull and Bush Pub ★ 4.3

Cocktail barEnglish pub (brewpub)$$$

Bull and Bush Pub in Denver is the Glendale English pub brewing house lagers since 1971, a Front Range fixture with cask-conditioned ale and a long beer list.

Signature drink: Cask-conditioned bitter and house lagers

Food: English pub menu

The Buckhorn Exchange ★ 4.3

Steakhouse$$$$lincoln-park

The Buckhorn Exchange in Denver is the city's oldest steakhouse since 1893, holding Colorado liquor license number one and a game menu that includes elk.

Signature: Elk steak, Rocky Mountain oysters, Bison burger

Order: The elk steak or the buffalo prime rib, both on the menu since opening.

Tip: The dining room is the original 1893 saloon with mounted heads on every wall; second-floor lounge is quieter. Light rail stops 50 feet from the door.

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