History

Reibekuchen are the Rhenish potato pancakes, called Rievkooche in the Kölsch dialect. The dish entered Cologne kitchens with the wider arrival of potatoes from the 18th century and became a market and Brauhaus staple. The Rievkoochbud kiosk in the Altstadt is the canonical city-centre operator; the weekly Wochenmarkt stalls and the Christmas markets in December multiply the city's daily output. The traditional partner is Rübenkraut, the dark Rhenish pickled-turnip syrup.

Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1kg floury potatoes, peeled
  • 1 large onion
  • 2 eggs
  • 3 tablespoons plain flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt, black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
  • 500g lard or 500ml sunflower oil for frying
  • Apple sauce (unsweetened) and Rhenish Rübenkraut (turnip syrup) to serve

Method

  1. Grate the potatoes and onion finely on a box grater into a sieve over a bowl. Press to squeeze out as much liquid as possible.
  2. Let the squeezed liquid stand 3 minutes so the starch settles. Pour off the water, scrape the starch back into the potato.
  3. Mix the potato with eggs, flour, salt, pepper and caraway to a thick batter.
  4. Heat 1cm of lard in a heavy cast-iron pan to 185C (a drop of batter should bubble immediately).
  5. Drop heaped tablespoons of batter into the pan, flatten with the back of the spoon to roughly 10cm wide and 1cm thick.
  6. Fry 3 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp at the edges. Lift to paper towels.
  7. Plate while still very hot. Serve with apple sauce on one side and Rübenkraut on the other.

Tip from the editors. The fat must sizzle immediately when batter hits; cool fat means soggy pancakes. Lard gives the canonical flavour; sunflower oil is acceptable, butter burns.

Where to eat reibekuchen (rievkooche)

Reibekuchen (Rievkooche) in Cologne

Rievkoochbud ★ 4.7

German€altstadtWed-Sun 10:00-18:00 (seasonal)

Rievkoochbud at Vor Wieden in Cologne's Altstadt has fried thick, crispy potato pancakes for over 60 years; the most famous Reibekuchen kiosk in Rhineland.

Vor Wieden 3, 50676 Koln

Brauerei zur Malzmühle ★ 4.3

Kölsch Brauhaus€€altstadtMon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Brauerei zur Malzmühle on Cologne's Heumarkt has brewed Mühlen Kölsch since 1858 and once served Bill Clinton; consistently fresh pours in the Altstadt.

Order: Halve Hahn, the traditional rye roll with aged Gouda, alongside a freshly tapped Mühlen Kölsch

Tip: Monday to Thursday from 14:00, Friday to Sunday from noon. Less tourist-heavy than the Cathedral-adjacent Brauhäuser.

Heumarkt 6, 50667 Köln

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