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An Alsatian head-cheese terrine: pieces of slow-cooked pork set in a sharp, herb-flecked aspic, sliced cold with a vinaigrette and raw onion as a winstub starter.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.

Presskopf, literally pressed head, is the Alsatian take on the French fromage de tete, a terrine of pork set in its own jelly. It is charcuterie of thrift, using the whole animal, and it survives because it tastes good: cool, gelatinous and tangy against a sharp dressing. It opens many a winstub meal, served in thick slices with a vinaigrette, capers and onion. Alongside it sits the carp version that Alsace's Jewish kitchens made their own.
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Tip from the editors. Test the stock for set by chilling a spoonful; if it stays loose, reduce further before pouring.
Au Pont Corbeau is a family winstub on the Quai Saint-Nicolas beside the Musee Alsacien, serving choucroute garnie, presskopf and spaetzle from local produce.
SignatureChoucroute garnie, Presskopf
Chez Yvonne, the S'Burjerstuewel near the cathedral, is the city's best-known winstub, a wood-panelled room famous for its tete de veau and Alsatian classics.
SignatureTete de veau, Baeckeoffe
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