Au Pont Corbeau ★ 4.4
Au Pont Corbeau is a family winstub on the Quai Saint-Nicolas beside the Musee Alsacien, serving choucroute garnie, presskopf and spaetzle from local produce.
Signature: Choucroute garnie, Presskopf
History
Presskopf, literally pressed head, is the Alsatian take on the French fromage de tete, a terrine of pork set in its own jelly. It is charcuterie of thrift, using the whole animal, and it survives because it tastes good: cool, gelatinous and tangy against a sharp dressing. It opens many a winstub meal, served in thick slices with a vinaigrette, capers and onion. Alongside it sits the carp version that Alsace's Jewish kitchens made their own.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 split pig's head or 1kg pork shoulder plus 2 trotters
- 2 onions, 2 carrots, leek and celery
- Bay, thyme, parsley and peppercorns
- 200ml white wine vinegar
- Salt and pepper
- Chopped parsley and shallot to finish
Method
- Simmer the pork and trotters with the vegetables and herbs for about 4 hours until the meat falls apart.
- Lift out the meat, pick it from the bones and chop it, discarding gristle.
- Strain the cooking liquor, reduce it until it sets when chilled on a spoon, then season and add the vinegar.
- Pack the meat into a terrine with the chopped parsley and shallot and pour over the warm stock.
- Chill overnight until firmly set, then turn out and slice thick with a sharp vinaigrette.
Tip from the editors. Test the stock for set by chilling a spoonful; if it stays loose, reduce further before pouring.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat presskopf
Presskopf in Strasbourg
Chez Yvonne ★ 4.4
Chez Yvonne, the S'Burjerstuewel near the cathedral, is the city's best-known winstub, a wood-panelled room famous for its tete de veau and Alsatian classics.
Signature: Tete de veau, Baeckeoffe
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