Pate en croute
Photo: Tangopaso · Public domain

History

Pate en croute in Lyon traces back to the charcutiers of the Renaissance, when the covered pastry casing was the only reliable way to transport cured forcemeat. The world championship, held annually in Lyon, has elevated the craft since 2009. Daniel et Denise won twice, and the event now draws competitors from 20 countries. Lyon's covered market Halles Paul Bocuse sells the winning formula at Boucherie Trolliet year-round, cementing the dish as the city's most articulate charcuterie export.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs, Dairy, Pork

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 1 hr 30 minTotal 6 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • For the pastry: 300g plain flour, 150g cold unsalted butter, 1 egg, 6 tbsp cold water, 1 tsp salt
  • For the farce: 300g pork shoulder minced
  • 200g chicken breast
  • 100g foie gras (or chicken liver)
  • 30g pistachios
  • 50ml Cognac
  • 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp black pepper, 1/2 tsp quatre-epices
  • 2 sheets of gelatine or 150ml good chicken stock for the aspic

Method

  1. Make the pastry: rub butter into flour and salt to breadcrumbs. Add egg and water, form a ball, wrap and chill 1 hour.
  2. Marinate the pork and chicken in Cognac with salt, pepper and quatre-epices for 1 hour. Dice the foie gras into 1cm cubes.
  3. Line a 25cm pate mould with rolled-out pastry (3mm thick), leaving an overhang. Lay the farce in layers with foie gras and pistachios in the centre. Fold over the top and seal with a lid, pressing the edges together. Cut two steam holes. Chill 20 minutes.
  4. Brush with egg wash and bake at 200C for 20 minutes, then reduce to 170C for a further 40 minutes until a probe thermometer reads 68C at the centre.
  5. Cool completely, then pour warm aspic (stock with dissolved gelatine) through the steam holes. Refrigerate overnight before slicing.

Tip from the editors. A thermometer probe is non-negotiable; underbaked farce is a food-safety risk and overbaked farce is dry.

Where to eat pate en croute

Pate en croute in Lyon

Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean ★ 4.5

€€ Lyonnais Bouchon5e

Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean in Vieux Lyon is Joseph Viola's bouchon in the old town, where the pate en croute won the world championship and remains.

OrderThe pate en croute as a starter, then the quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua.

TipClosed Sunday-Monday; book three days ahead; service can run long.

Directions

Boucherie Trolliet ★ 4.5

€ Street food

Boucherie Trolliet inside Halles Paul Bocuse in Lyon's 3e is the multi-generation Lyonnais butcher counter for saucisson de Lyon and slices of pate en croute.

TrySaucisson de Lyon and pate en croute

TipClosed Monday; the saucisson brioche and pate slices travel home well.

Directions

Jaja Bistro ★ 4.2

€€€ Wine bar

Jaja Bistro in Lyon's 2e on Rue Laurencin is the natural-wine bistro with a daily blackboard of small plates and a tightly-edited French growers' list.

PourRhone syrah by the glass

WineNatural French growers

FoodWine-bar plates

TipClosed Sunday-Monday; the back room is the quieter seating for groups.

Directions

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