History

Pastis landais (from Gascon pastis, meaning cake) is a brioche specialty of the Landes and Béarn regions south of Bordeaux, flavoured with rum and orange-flower water. It travelled north through Aquitaine trade routes and became a fixture of Bordeaux bakeries alongside the canelé. Patisserie Valantin and Maison Zurcher in central Bordeaux remain among the city's most consistent sources.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 22Hands-on 45 minTotal 16 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g strong white flour, plus more for kneading
  • 100g caster sugar
  • 10g instant yeast
  • 1 tsp fine sea salt
  • 4 large eggs, room temperature
  • 200g unsalted butter, softened
  • 120ml warm whole milk
  • 60ml dark rum
  • 3 tbsp orange-flower water (real, not artificial)
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • Zest of 1 orange
  • 1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped
  • For glazing: 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp milk
  • For finishing: 2 tbsp pearl sugar (parlsocker) or coarse decorating sugar
  • Extra orange-flower water and a tablespoon of icing sugar for the wash

Method

  1. Mix flour, sugar, yeast, salt, lemon zest, orange zest, and vanilla seeds in a stand mixer bowl.
  2. Add eggs and warm milk; mix on low for 4 minutes until a shaggy dough forms.
  3. With the mixer on medium-low, add the soft butter piece by piece until incorporated. Knead 12 minutes until silky and elastic.
  4. Stir rum and orange-flower water together. Drizzle slowly into the dough while mixing on low for 3 more minutes.
  5. Cover and prove at room temperature for 90 minutes until visibly doubled.
  6. Knock back, then refrigerate overnight (8 to 12 hours).
  7. The next morning, butter and flour a 22cm tall deep brioche mould or panettone-style paper case.
  8. Shape the cold dough into a tall round and place in the mould. Cover and prove at room temperature 3 to 4 hours until risen above the rim.
  9. Heat oven to 180C. Brush the top gently with egg wash and shower with pearl sugar.
  10. Bake 40 to 50 minutes until deep golden and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean; cover loosely with foil at 30 minutes if browning too fast.
  11. Whisk icing sugar with 1 tbsp orange-flower water and brush warm pastis with the glaze. Cool completely before slicing.

Tip from the editors. Real orange-flower water (eau de fleur d'oranger) from Provence or Lebanon is essential; artificial flavour produces a soapy pastis. The overnight slow rise in the fridge is what gives the proper brioche texture and Bordeaux flavour development.

Where to eat pastis landais (southwest brioche)

Pastis Landais (Southwest Brioche) in Bordeaux

Maison Zurcher ★ 4.1

Bakery€saint-pierreTue-Sat 07:30-19:00Walk-in onlyFamily viennoiserie

Maison Zurcher on Place du Pradeau is the family-run artisanal patisserie in central Bordeaux, with viennoiseries, breads and a quietly excellent croissant.

Tip: Almond croissants come out around 09:00 and sell out by 11:00 on Saturdays; the queue at opening is genuine.

Worth the queue: Croissant aux amandes

4 Place du Pradeau, 33000 Bordeaux

Patisserie Valantin ★ 4.2

Bakery€saint-genesTue-Sat 08:30-19:30Walk-in onlyFrench patisserie

Patisserie Valantin in Bordeaux's Nansouty district is Compagnon-du-Tour-de-France pastry chef Julien Ruffin's classical French patisserie on Cours de la.

Tip: The Saint-Honore is the showpiece; Saturday is the busiest day so arrive before 11:00 for the morning bake.

Worth the queue: Saint-Honore

268 Cours de la Somme, 33800 Bordeaux

Patisserie S ★ 4.5

Bakery€saint-pierreTue-Sat 10:00-19:00Walk-in onlyFranco-Asian pastry

Patisserie S on Cours d'Alsace et Lorraine is Satomi and Stanley Chan's stylish Franco-Asian patisserie, both alumni of Joel Robuchon and Yannick Alleno.

Tip: The signature tarte au yuzu goes by mid-afternoon; the chou au matcha travels well as a takeaway snack.

Worth the queue: Tarte au yuzu

8 Cours d'Alsace et Lorraine, 33000 Bordeaux

Baillardran ★ 4.7

Bakery€golden-triangleMon-Sat 09:00-20:00, Sun 09:00-19:30Walk-in onlyCannele de Bordeaux

Baillardran in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the canele specialist on Cours de l'Intendance since 1988, with the city's most-quoted version.

Tip: Buy two sizes, the small and the regular; eat the regular the day of purchase and freeze the small for later.

Worth the queue: Cannele de Bordeaux

55 Cours de l'Intendance, 33000 Bordeaux

Boulangerie Louis Lamour ★ 4.6

Bakery€golden-triangleTue-Sat 07:30-19:30Walk-in onlySourdough breads

Boulangerie Louis Lamour on Rue Ravez is the artisan bakery from Louis Vaughan, an Eric Kayser and Grande Epicerie alumnus who reconverted to bread.

Tip: Bread fills the shelves at 08:00; the pain de campagne goes by 13:00 most days and there is no afternoon bake. A second boutique sits at 22 Place Gavinies.

Worth the queue: Pain de campagne au levain

7 Rue Ravez, 33000 Bordeaux

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