Panelle e Crocche
Photo: Auregann · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Panelle trace to Arab Sicily; chickpea flour was a Maghrebi staple that entered Sicilian cooking after the 9th-century conquest. The technique is to cook a thick chickpea-flour porridge with water and salt, spread it thin on a marble slab to set, then cut into squares and deep-fry until crisp at the edges. The crocche (potato croquettes) emerged as a companion in the 19th century and were always sold from the same friggitorie counters. The form survives at every Ballaro, Capo and Vucciria street counter. The vastedda roll-stuffed sandwich format is the canonical late-morning Palermitan street meal; Friggitoria Chiluzzo and Nni Franco u' Vastiddaru are the reference counters.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Sesame

Make it at home

Yield 24Hands-on 45 minTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 300g chickpea flour
  • 1 litre water
  • 8g fine sea salt
  • Fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 500g floury potatoes (Russet or similar)
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 50g grated caciocavallo or parmesan
  • Sunflower oil for frying
  • Sesame-seeded vastedda buns for serving

Method

  1. For the panelle, whisk chickpea flour into cold water in a heavy pan with salt. Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring constantly, until thick and pulling from the sides.
  2. Stir in parsley and pour the paste onto a marble slab or oiled tray about 5mm thick. Cool completely, then cut into rectangles 6cm by 10cm.
  3. For the crocche, boil potatoes until tender, mash with cheese, egg and salt. Shape into oval croquettes about 5cm long.
  4. Heat oil to 180 degrees Celsius. Fry panelle in batches for 2 to 3 minutes until golden and puffed.
  5. Fry crocche for 3 to 4 minutes until golden brown.
  6. Stuff 4 panelle and 2 crocche into each warm bun. Salt and serve immediately.

Tip from the editors. Spread the chickpea paste while still hot for the smoothest panelle; oiling your hands keeps it from sticking.

Where to eat panelle e crocche

Panelle e Crocche in Palermo

Friggitoria Chiluzzo ★ 4.6

€ SicilianKalsa

Friggitoria Chiluzzo on Piazza Kalsa in Palermo is the city's cheapest serious meal, panelle and crocche sandwich at 2 euros eaten standing on the piazza.

TryPanelle e crocche sandwich

TipCash only. Eat on the church steps opposite.

Directions

Panelle e Crocche del Ballaro ★ 4.3

€ SicilianAlbergheria

Panelle and crocche vendors along Piazza Ballaro in Palermo sell chickpea fritter and potato croquette sandwiches for 2 to 4 euros, the canonical Palermitan.

TryPanelle e crocche sandwich

TipCash only. The corner of Via Carmine has the busiest counter.

Directions

Antica Focacceria San Francesco ★ 4.1

€€ Street foodKalsaUntil 23:00

Antica Focacceria San Francesco in Palermo's Kalsa serves the full Palermitan street food carte from 11:00-23:00, the city's reliable late-evening.

TryPane ca' meusa, sfincione, panelle

TipCounter pickup is fastest. The terrace facing the basilica is the late-night seat.

Directions Book

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