Paella mar i muntanya is Catalonia's sea-and-mountain paella: a Valencian-rooted rice cooked in a wide flat pan with both chicken and prawns, the canonical surf-and-turf.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Valencia invented the paella in the 18th century with rabbit, snails and green beans. Catalonia's coast brought the dish to Barcelona by the early 20th century with the sea-and-mountain twist: chicken from the hills, prawns from the harbour, the saffron-and-paprika sofrito a Catalan signature. 7 Portes in the Born has cooked the dish on the bone since 1836; Els Pescadors in Poblenou and Somorrostro on the seafront both run modernised versions. The technique is unchanged: short-grain bomba or calasparra rice, hot stock added in one shot, no stirring, 18 to 20 minutes uncovered, the bottom socarrat crust the goal.
Common allergens: Shellfish
Tip from the editors. Do not stir once the stock is in; the socarrat crust on the bottom is the canonical sign of a real paella. Bomba rice holds its shape; ordinary rice will not.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
7 Portes in Barcelona's Born has run since 1836: arched rooms, brass plaques on regulars' tables, a paella for each day of the week.
Signature: Parellada paella, Catalan cream
Order: The Thursday paella Parellada and the crema catalana to finish.
Tip: Lunch is easier than dinner; the noon paella is held on the menu every day of the week.
Els Pescadors in Barcelona's Poblenou is the historic plaça-de-Prim seafood room: arroz a banda, suquet, fresh catch from Vilanova fishermen direct.
Somorrostro in Barcelona's Barceloneta is the modern Catalan room where the black rice with squid is the order and the natural-wine list is the surprise.
Signature: Black rice with squid, Catalan fideua
Order: The black rice with squid and aioli, plus an albariño.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The lunch carte is the price point; dinner adds 25 percent.
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