History
The dish appears on Parisian bouillon menus from the 1880s, when the workers' canteens of Les Halles needed a sub-€1 starter. By 1955 it was standard at every Paris bistro and brasserie. The Association de Sauvegarde de l'Œuf Mayonnaise (ASOM), founded 1990 by Claude Lebey, runs an annual contest in the city for the best version, judged on the firmness of the egg yolk (just-set, not chalky), the consistency of the mayonnaise (it should coat the back of a spoon), and the proportions. Bouillon Chartier serves the bistro template at €3.20; Bistrot Paul Bert's version with extra-virgin oil mayonnaise is the editorial benchmark.