History

Motsunabe came from Fukuoka's postwar Korean community, who brought the practice of cooking beef offal in a hotpot format. The dish stayed local until Yamanaka opened in Ohashi in 1984 and codified the miso-based version with garlic chives and cabbage; Rakutenchi followed with the soy-sauce style. Through the 1990s motsunabe boomed nationally as a Hakata regional specialty. The champon-noodle finish is a Yamanaka invention. The dish runs from October through March in most rooms; some carry it all year.

Common allergens: Soy, Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g beef offal (small intestine), blanched
  • 800g shredded green cabbage
  • 1 large bunch garlic chives, cut into 5cm lengths
  • 100g bean sprouts
  • 200g Korean miso paste OR 100ml shoyu
  • 1L dashi stock
  • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 15g ginger, julienned
  • 1 small red chilli, sliced
  • 400g champon noodles, for the finish

Method

  1. Blanch the offal for 10 minutes in boiling water, drain, rinse.
  2. In a clay pot or shallow heavy casserole, layer cabbage at the base, then offal, then bean sprouts, then a final layer of garlic chives on top.
  3. Whisk the miso (or shoyu) into the dashi stock with garlic, ginger and chilli. Pour gently over the vegetables to just submerge the cabbage layer.
  4. Cover and bring to a hard simmer over the table burner or stove. Cook 25 to 30 minutes until the cabbage softens and the offal is tender.
  5. Serve from the pot at the table. When two-thirds eaten, drop the champon noodles into the remaining broth and cook 3 minutes.

Tip from the editors. The garlic chive layer wilts onto the offal and is the dish's defining seasoning. Do not under-chive.

Where to eat motsunabe

Motsunabe in Fukuoka

Hakata Motsunabe Yamanaka Akasaka ★ 4.6

Japanese¥¥¥akasaka

Yamanaka invented miso-style motsunabe in 1984. The Akasaka branch is the most central of three Fukuoka outlets and the easiest reservation.

Signature: Miso motsunabe, Soy sauce motsunabe, Champon noodle finish

Order: Miso motsunabe for two with the champon noodle close.

Tip: Reserve a day ahead for dinner. Closes between 14:30 and 17:00 for the afternoon break.

Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 810-0042, Japan

Motsunabe Rakutenchi Tenjin So-Honten ★ 4.5

Japanese¥¥¥imaizumi

Rakutenchi's Tenjin flagship: three floors and 240 horigotatsu seats, the largest motsunabe room in Kyushu. Soy-sauce base, mountain of garlic chives.

Signature: Soy-sauce motsunabe, All-you-can-eat champon, Garlic-chive mound

Order: Puripuri motsu daimanzoku course with all-you-can-eat champon noodles.

Tip: Open daily 17:00-24:00. Reserve through the operator's site or by phone.

Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 810-0021, Japan

Hakata Motsunabe Yamanaka Hakata ★ 4.4

Japanese¥¥¥hakata

Hakata Station branch of Yamanaka's miso-motsunabe original, closer to the shinkansen than the Akasaka room, with the same recipe since 1984. Most central.

Signature: Miso motsunabe, Soy sauce motsunabe, Champon noodle finish

Order: Miso motsunabe for two, finished with champon noodles.

Tip: Reserve ahead for dinner; the room fills with business travellers most weeknights.

Hakata-ku, Fukuoka 812-0013, Japan

Hakata Motsunabe Yamanaka Ohashi Honten ★ 4.2

JapaneseChef Yamanaka team¥¥¥¥¥6,000-9,000akasakaMon, Wed-Thu 16:00-22:00, Fri 16:00-23:00, Sat 11:30-14:00, 16:00-23:00, Sun 11:30-14:00, 16:00-22:00Book 1 to 2 weeks ahead

The original 1984 Yamanaka, a warehouse building in Ohashi where miso motsunabe was first codified. Hardest to reach of the three Yamanaka rooms; quietest.

Tip: Reserve through the operator's site. Bring a small group; the room is built for parties of four.

Minami-ku, Fukuoka 815-0035, Japan

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