History

Zeeland mussels reach Antwerp in volume from 15 July through March. The traditional Antwerp preparation steams them with white wine, celery and onion in a black cast-iron pot. The combination with frites is the canonical Belgian summer-evening dinner, served on every brasserie terrace from Bocadero on Eilandje to Mampoko on Amerikalei.

Common allergens: Molluscs, Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 2Hands-on 15 minTotal 25 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg Zeeland mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
  • 2 shallots, finely chopped
  • 1 stick celery, finely chopped
  • 1 small leek, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 200ml dry white wine
  • 50g butter
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Small bunch of parsley, chopped
  • Black pepper
  • Belgian frites and mayonnaise to serve

Method

  1. Discard any mussels that do not close when tapped.
  2. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Soften the shallots, celery, leek and garlic for 5 minutes.
  3. Add the wine and bay leaf. Bring to a hard simmer.
  4. Tip in the mussels. Cover with a tight lid and steam over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pot.
  5. Mussels are done when the shells open. Discard any that stay closed.
  6. Scatter parsley over the top and grind black pepper. Serve straight from the pot.
  7. Serve with double-fried Belgian frites and a bowl of homemade mayonnaise.

Tip from the editors. Mussel water is good. Soak frites in it briefly for a Flemish trick that doubles the umami of both.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat mosselen-friet

Mosselen-friet in Antwerp

Mampoko ★ 4.0

Brasserie breakfast and brunch€12 to €25het-zuidDaily 08:30-22:00Reserve weekends

Mampoko in Antwerp on Amerikalei runs all-day brasserie service that starts with breakfast at 08:30 and rolls through brunch and lunch.

Order: Mampoko breakfast with eggs and Belgian charcuterie

Tip: The corner terrace opens with the weather. Reserve for Saturday brunch.

Amerikalei 8, 2000 Antwerp

Bocadero ★ 4.0

Mediterranean beach brasserie€€eilandje

Bocadero in Antwerp is a beach-bar brasserie on Rijnkaai 150 on the Eilandje waterfront. Casual plates and a long summer aperitivo.

Signature: Fish and chips, Burgers, Beach-bar bowls

Order: The fish and chips; the harbour terrace fills mid-afternoon.

Tip: Open seasonally with shorter winter hours. Reservations only on the indoor side.

Rijnkaai 150, 2000 Antwerp Book →

RAS ★ 4.2

Belgian seafood, riverfront€€€historisch-centrum

RAS in Antwerp sits on the riverfront on Ernest Van Dijckkaai with a Scheldt terrace listed in the Michelin Guide. The kitchen leans heavily on North Sea fish.

Signature: North Sea fish, Mussels in season, Belgian seafood plates

Order: Whatever is in season from the North Sea; the chalkboard rotates with the day's catch.

Tip: The Scheldt-facing terrace fills first in summer. Reserve the inside river view for sunset dinners.

Ernest Van Dijckkaai 37, 2000 Antwerp Book →

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